Category Archives: Wool

Where to find pure wool yarns: merino, romney, churro and more

No-Nylon Sock Knitting

Since I had cancer last year, I have spent time examining how I live and what possible environmental effects could have had an influence on getting this disease. I have had to change many things in my life and to examine what foods I eat, the types of fabrics and clothes that I wear, the yarns, fibres and dyes that I use in my work. In addition to the air pollution around us from cars and factories, working as a weaver/spinner, we know that fibre creates dust and small airborne particles that we breathe. Those particles get into our lungs, our food, and everything we touch and can be absorbed by our skin.
As we know, in recent months there has been growing concern about the use of microplastics, that pollute our rivers, streams, oceans and invade the delicate balance of our world. The concern is not just plastic bags, plastic water bottles but also the bits of plastic particles that are in most of our clothing and fabrics.

So the gentle hobby of knitting that we enjoy also has an impact on our world. What yarns we choose to knit with and to wear can make a difference. Since it is November and the days are cold, I have been knitting some socks and mittens. There are many yarns and fibres to choose from – wools, mohair, silks, cottons,yak, alpaca, cashmere. A random Google search led me to a huge selection of sock yarns. When I looked at the fibre content of the yarn blends, most of them contain 10% to 25% nylon/polyamide. That might not seem like a lot, but it all adds up.
I begin to wonder, is nylon really necessary to add to the sock to give it strength? When you add up all the wools and other yarns that contain nylon, that adds up to a lot of microplastics.
When I knit socks that contain nylon, I find that they do wear out rather quickly at the heels and the bottom of the foot. I look at the yarn and how it has worn, and I see that the wool has broken and the nylon remains. I wonder if the nylon could be abrasive and causes the wool to wear?

I thought back to the days when my mother used to knit hats, mittens, socks, sweaters for our family. My Dad, my brothers, sister, nieces and nephews each got a sock, hat and mitten set every Christmas. She only used pure wool for her knitting. The socks were hard-wearing and almost never wore out. Our sock drawers were full of hand knit socks, made many years ago, though we did get a new pair to add to the collection every year. When the socks did get a bit worn, she would darn them with other bits of leftover wool. Make do and mend, and those socks would again be warm and durable.
I found some of my mother’s old double point sock knitting needles. I remember that she would use different sizes of needles for the socks – for the body of the sock she used a slightly thicker size of needle and a thinner one for the heel and foot of the socks. I measured her old knitting needles – and the fine ones were 2.0.

Sock Knitting Needles
Sock Knitting Needles

For socks that I knit, I have been using the recommended 2.5 mm to 3.0 mm for most of my knitting and the socks do wear out quickly. Perhaps the socks also need to be knit with a tighter tension to give the sock more strength. I will test this and knit with my mother’s fine needles on my next pair of socks.

As a hand spinner I am aware that the type of wool fibre that you use can make a difference to the durability and softness of the sock. And also how the yarn is spun – with a tight twist or a loosely spun one.
Wool spun for socks should be made from a sheep breed that has a long staple length and is worsted spun with a tight twist. Soft wools such as merino are not really suitable as the fibre is very fine, the staple length is short and I find that merino tends to break off and pill when it is worn. Merino is better suited for knitting lace shawls, hats or wool sweaters that don’t demand a lot of hard use.
I have some wool sensitivites and I find that many wools make me itch and can give me a rash. A sheep breed such as Blue Faced Leicester is my favourite yarn for knitting. Romney is also another favourite of mine, though it is difficult to find in the UK.
It is difficult to find a sock yarn that doesn’t contain some amount of nylon. Perhaps if we as consumers become more demanding and ask yarn companies to produce yarns that are nylon free, non-superwash, and use eco-friendly dyes and methods, this will change. For now, I dye my own yarns with natural plant dyes. Both for personal use and for sale. You can find some of my Indie dyed yarns in my Paivatar Yarn Etsy Shop. Please also support other Indie dyers and crafters who work with natural materials.

Naturally Plant Dyed Knitted Hanwarmers
Naturally Plant Dyed Knitted Hanwarmers

Comments from Readers
After publishing this post, I received this comment from a long time friend and All Fiber Arts community member.

I never did like the idea of nylon in our wool socks. I did not believe that it make the socks last longer; I just could never understand how it could. What I knew was that the wool would disappear and the nylon would remain behind — and we THOUGHT that made the socks stronger. It didn’t.

I remember many years ago, I had purchased a pair of socks, machine made, that looked sort of home-made. They were in a natural sort of uneven grey colour, and appeared to be warm. They weren’t. They were not even wool, but mostly a loosely spun acrylic! [I didn’t read labels very carefully back then!] They wore out very fast…. I perhaps only wore them twice, and they seemed to wash away! I had holes in the bottom of the heel and ball of foot.

So I darned them. I decided to do duplicate stitch. After all, I could see the stitches (in nylon) and the rest of the sock had vanished. So it seemed so easy to just stitch over the stitches as they were already there, and it would all be good! Famous last words.

It seemed to take so long to do! I used my own hand-spun yarn, and covered the hole with neatly made stitches just as they were. For a darning mushroom, I used a light bulb (remember those?). I stitched a little beyond the hole so it would blend in. The heel was done with short rows, and I followed the pattern, and discovered how they were made. I stitched under the ball of the foot, and then the toe, and any thin area. I never knew where to stop! I mean, should I go only up to this stitch, or should I include the one next to it as well? I really felt that I could have knit the socks from scratch with my own yarn faster than it took to darn them! But it was a very good learning experience.

[I do remember where I was living at the time. I was sitting in my kitchen, with the oven door open — it was very cold then in winter, and I had little heat. I was listening to the federal finance minister presenting his budget at that time as well. I remember very well thinking whether he ever has sat and darned his own socks! If he did, THEN he could talk to me about restraint and higher taxes!]

When I did a lot of weaving, I do remember reading somewhere that you should NOT use nylon as a warp when weaving rugs because it would cut through your wool weft. That was a revelation to me…. and I always remembered that. So putting nylon in socks seems to be counter-intuitive. Wouldn’t the nylon cut through the wool? Of course it did! But that only meant you would have to buy more socks sooner! [there is some sense behind their madness!]

I could never understand how the addition of the nylon, whether blended with the wool, or added while knitting, could make the wool last longer. All I could see is that the wool could disappear, but the stitch would still hold together… there could still be some fabric there…. and it would “last longer”.

I thank you for bringing this to our attention. I don’t like the prevalence of all these synthetics in our lives. I can’t believe they are doing us any good. I am so distressed when those ignorant knitters on the forum write that they HAVE to use acrylics for their grandkids because their children are too busy to be able to hand-wash any baby clothes. But they prefer to give them toxic clothes instead? Have any of you ever seen a baby burned by melting acrylics?? As you know, wool does not burn without a flame on it. Only one conclusion in my mind.

We need to be reminded of these things from time to time. We soon get caught in the ways of the world, and we forget. Until it is too late.

TG

Plastics and Pollution
I was very happy to see in The Guardian newspaper today a beginning of awareness that the clothing we wear has an impact on the world around us.
The Christmas Jumper, so loved by everyone in the holiday season, is causing harm to our planet.
Christmas Jumpers Add to Plastic Pollution
“95% of the jumpers were made wholly or partly of plastic materials. The charity said the garment had become one of the worst examples of fast fashion, now recognised as hugely damaging to the environment.”

The contribution of washing processes of synthetic clothes to microplastic pollution
Recent estimations have assessed that synthetic clothes contributes by about 35% to the global release of primary microplastics to the world oceans, thus becoming the main source of microplastics.

More
Plant Dyes and Your Health

Sock Knitting Books
Jorid Linvik’s Big Book of Knitted Socks: 45 Distinctive Scandinavian Patterns

The Sock Knitter’s Handbook: Expert Advice, Tips, and Tricks

The Knitter’s Book of Socks: The Yarn Lover’s Ultimate Guide to Creating Socks That Fit Well, Feel Great, and Last a Lifetime

Knitting Vintage Socks

Knit Like a Latvian – Socks: 50 Knitting Patterns for Knee Length, Ankle and Footless Socks

150 Scandinavian Motifs: The Knitter’s Directory

Knitting – Shetland squares 2

As I travel on the train to work in London every day, the journey gets quite long and tedious. A 2 hour commute is a long time. Knitting helps to make this daily grind a bit easier. I have found that knitting small items is quite easy to do on a train and doesn’t disturb other passengers too much. I do get some funny looks sometimes as I pull my handspun yarn and knitting needles out of my bag.
I use circular needles so that I don’t stab whoever is sitting beside me with the end of the needle. I invested in a set of wooden circular needles from Knit Pro – they are fabulous to knit with.
UK: Knit Pro Symfonie
Knit Pro Symfonie Wood Circular Needle Interchangeable Deluxe Set

US: Knitters Pride Cubics Symfonie
Knitter’s Pride Cubics Symfonie Rose Deluxe Interchangeable Circular Needle Set

This is the knitted square that I designed yesterday as I travelled into work.

Rib Twist knitting swatch

I knitted this with the gray Shetland yarn that I handspun earlier this week.
Shetland Squares No. 1

I cast on 26 stitches and knit this square on quite large knitting needles – 8mm – because I want the finished piece to be very light and airy. I will be putting all the knitted blocks together into an afghan. You can adapt this pattern to just about any yarns that you have on hand. Just continue knitting until the piece is square, or reasonably so.
This pattern is knit as a simple 4 stitch rib, with a bit of a cable twist added to it.

Knitting Chart ‘Rib Twist x1’

Rib twist knitting chart

Legend

1/1 LC
Slip next st to cable needle and place at front of work, k1, then k1 from cable needle

Knitting Pattern ‘Rib Twist x1’

Row 1 (RS): k1, (p1, k4) x 5.
Row 2 (WS): (p4, k1) x 5, p1.
Row 3 (RS): (k1, p1, k1, 1/1 LC) x 5, k1.
Row 4 (WS): (p4, k1) x 5, p1.
Row 5 (RS): (k1, p1, k1, 1/1 LC) x 5, k1.
Row 6 (WS): (p4, k1) x 5, p1.
Row 7 (RS): (k1, p1, k1, 1/1 LC) x 5, k1.
Row 8 (WS): (p4, k1) x 5, p1.
Row 9 (RS): (k1, p1, k1, 1/1 LC) x 5, k1.
Row 10 (WS): (p4, k1) x 5, p1.
Row 11 (RS): (k1, p1, k1, 1/1 LC) x 5, k1.
Row 12 (WS): (p4, k1) x 5, p1.
Row 13 (RS): (k1, p1, k1, 1/1 LC) x 5, k1.
Row 14 (WS): (p4, k1) x 5, p1.
Row 15 (RS): (k1, p1, k1, 1/1 LC) x 5, k1.
Row 16 (WS): (p4, k1) x 5, p1.
Row 17 (RS): (k1, p1, k1, 1/1 LC) x 5, k1.
Row 18 (WS): (p4, k1) x 5, p1.
Row 19 (RS): (k1, p1, k1, 1/1 LC) x 5, k1.
Row 20 (WS): (p4, k1) x 5, p1.
Row 21 (RS): (k1, p1, k1, 1/1 LC) x 5, k1.
Row 22 (WS): (p4, k1) x 5, p1.
Row 23 (RS): (k1, p1, k1, 1/1 LC) x 5, k1.
Row 24 (WS): (p4, k1) x 5, p1.
Row 25 (RS): (k1, p1, k1, 1/1 LC) x 5, k1.
Row 26 (WS): (p4, k1) x 5, p1.
Row 27 (RS): (k1, p1, k1, 1/1 LC) x 5, k1.
Row 28 (WS): (p4, k1) x 5, p1.
Row 29 (RS): k1, (p1, k4) x 5.
Row 30 (WS): (p4, k1) x 5, p1.

Knitting Charts

Shetland Square Charts
Holey Lace
Riblines
Shetland Squares

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#3 Shaker Signed JH antique spinning Wheel Sabbathday Lake Maine

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Ashford Kiwi-3 Spinning Wheel - Unfinished, Folding Treadles - FREE Shipping

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Shetland Squares

I recently purchased some Shetland wool roving samples from World of Wool. The sample pack was 100 grams each of 4 natural shades of Shetland wool – White, Grey, Moorit and Dark Brown.
Sample Pack of Shetland Roving
Shetland roving

I thought that I would spin these yarns up and knit an afghan consisting of different knitting patterns.
Here is the first one:

Single Ply Shetland Handspun Yarn
Single ply spun at 22 wpi

2 Ply Shetland Handspun Yarn
2 ply spun at 8 wpi
approx. 600 ypp

Knit Sample – Cable Wobble

Knitting Chart – Cable Wobble Pattern

I cast on 26 stitches and knitted this in a modified cable pattern over 4 stitches using 8mm knitting needles.
I have knit this on fairly large needles because I want the finished afghan to be quite light and airy.
If you are using handspun yarn of a different weight, follow the pattern along until you have formed a square.
This square uses approx. 20 grams of handspun yarn.

The knitting chart was designed on my new knitting design software – Knitting Chart Editor from Cathy Scott’s Stitch Mastery
I am very pleased with this software – I have searched for some time for knitting chart design software that is intuitive, easy to use and has the flexibility to also add your own stitches.
The software produces the chart and also the text form for knitting patterns – for those of us who find this easier to follow.
Also, Cathy was very helpful when I had a few hiccups with installing the software.

Legend

2-2RC knit swatch

2/2 RC
Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and place at back of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle

-2LC knit swatch
2/2 LC
Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and place at front of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle

Knitting Pattern – Cable Wobble x4

Row 1 (RS): k26.
Row 2 (WS): p26.
Row 3 (RS): k26.
Row 4 (WS): p26.
Row 5 (RS): k3, (2/2 LC, k4) x 2, 2/2 LC, k3.
Row 6 (WS): p26.
Row 7 (RS): k26.
Row 8 (WS): p26.
Row 9 (RS): k3, (2/2 LC, k4) x 2, 2/2 LC, k3.
Row 10 (WS): p26.
Row 11 (RS): k26.
Row 12 (WS): p26.
Row 13 (RS): k2, (2/2 RC, k4) x 3.
Row 14 (WS): p26.
Row 15 (RS): k26.
Row 16 (WS): p26.
Row 17 (RS): k2, (2/2 RC, k4) x 3.
Row 18 (WS): p26.
Row 19 (RS): k26.
Row 20 (WS): p26.
Row 21 (RS): k3, (2/2 LC, k4) x 2, 2/2 LC, k3.
Row 22 (WS): p26.
Row 23 (RS): k26.
Row 24 (WS): p26.
Row 25 (RS): k3, (2/2 LC, k4) x 2, 2/2 LC, k3.
Row 26 (WS): p26.
Row 27 (RS): k26.
Row 28 (WS): p26.
Row 29 (RS): k26.
Row 30 (WS): p26.

This is the first of the knitting swatches from my new handspinning project. I still have several grams of wool roving to spin and more swatches to knit, so check back soon for more.

Knitting Charts

Rib Twist – Shetland Squares No. 2
Shetland Squares Charts
Riblines
Holey Lace

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#3 Shaker Signed JH antique spinning Wheel Sabbathday Lake Maine

$225.00
End Date: Tuesday Mar-24-2020 7:04:29 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $225.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Early Antique Spinning Wheel

$125.00 (0 Bids)
End Date: Friday Feb-28-2020 12:09:38 PST
Buy It Now for only: $165.00
Buy It Now | Bid now | Add to watch list

Ashford Kiwi-3 Spinning Wheel - Unfinished, Folding Treadles - FREE Shipping

$479.00
End Date: Wednesday Mar-4-2020 10:35:56 PST
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Carding wool: blclipart15

American Memory Collections
A comprehensive database of sound and image files.

American Memory and Copyright
Lists information about the rights of use of American Memory collection materials.

Spanish American Woman Carding Wool

WPA Project in Costilla, New Mexico

Photographer: Russell Lee

Published: WPA Federal Art Project photograph 1939

Digital ID: fsa8b22830

 

Carding wool

Spanish American Woman Weaving Rag Rug

WPA Project in Costilla, New Mexico

Photographer: Russell Lee
Published: WPA Federal Art Project photograph 1939
Digital ID: fsa8b22892

Weaving rag rugs

Female Peasant Carding Wool, 1875
Camille Pissarro

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More Clipart

Page 1: Drop Spindles, buttons

Page 2: Dye vats, Mechanical looms

Page 3: Clipart- Silk Moths

Page 4: Clipart -Yarn balls, cotton bolls

Page 5: Clipart -Tapestry weavers

Page 6: Clipart – WPA posters

Page 7: Clipart – Weaver at a loom

Page 8: Clipart – Weaving room, Distaff Wheel

Page 9: Clipart – Icelandic Spinning Wheel

Page 10: Clipart – Silk Reeling, Cotton Gin

Page 11: Clipart – Flax Retting

Page 12: Clipart – Lowell Mill Girls

Page 13: Clipart – Salish Woman – Emily Carr

Page 14: Clipart – Backstrap Loom

Page 15: Clipart – Spanish Woman Carding Wool

Page 16: Clipart – Hopi Basket Weaver

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Ready-to-Use Illustrations for Holidays and Special Occasions (Dover Clip-Art)
Japanese Designs CD-ROM and Book (Dover Electronic Clip Art)
Chinese Designs CD-ROM and Book (Dover Electronic Clip Art)

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Fantti coiled basket: aa012905

Fantti yarn is a new type of yarn from Finland. Fantti yarn is wool pencil roving that has been slightly felted. It can be used for making baskets, woven as weft for flat or tufted rugs, tapestries or other creative textile projects.

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  • Cut 6 strands of 12 ply hemp (white) each 24 inches long
  • Cut 6 strands of 12 ply hemp (natural)each 24 inches long
  • (Substitute strong linen or cotton yarn)
  • Weave (interlace) them together to form the base for the basket
  • If you find them a bit tricky to weave together you can use tape to secure the yarn ends to a table while you are weaving them.

fantti-6.jpg, 99709 bytes

  • Using the Fantti yarn begin to weave the yarn in a circular fashion around the woven square base of the basket, leaving an end of approx. 2 inches. This end will be woven into the base of the basket after you have finished.
  • Each alternate “warp” hemp thread goes under the Fantti “weft” thread, loops around and back under around the Fantti “weft” thread. This forms a loop around the Fantti yarn The alternate “warp” thread is simply looped over the Fantti yarn.
  • On the next row of the alternate warp thread is looped around the Fantti weft thread.
  • Once you have worked around a couple of rows, pull and tighten the hemp “warp” threads.
  • Continue weaving in this fashion to complete the basket.

fantti-8.jpg, 28880 bytes

  • Weave the basket until you have approx. 1 inch of warp threads remaining. Wrap these around the top row of the basket.
  • Weave the end of the warp thread to the inside rim of the basket and trim. I used a small crochet hook to tuck the ends in.

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Fantti Yarn

Fanttilanka
Where to find Fantti yarn.
Fantti Yarn Rug
An example of a rug woven with Fantti wool yarn.

Finnish Weaving Techniques

Raanu
Rya rugs
Takana
Poppana
Handiscola

Basketry Weaving

Pine Needle Basketry: From Forest Floor to Finished Project

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Hand Knit Hats: blstellafay

“The skeins of yarn are Romney wool from “The Royale Hare” here in Northern California. the blue hat and tiny sock are my handspun also.”
handspun romney

The Romney was dyed when I got it. www.royalehare.com is the site of the shop, but I got the wool at Stitches West. It was an off-dye lot with different colors than she intended. The wool had a long staple, and was very smooth and shiny. Having never worked with Romney before, I made some mistakes, but I finally ended up flicking each lock, then drawing them into pencil rovings before I spun. the color variations in the skein make them really nice. I think another hat is called for, since that’s all there is of the yarn. oh, and I immediately noticed that the skein ties looked awful! they showed up a LOT more in the photo.

by StellaFay

knit hat

The blue hat is from a pattern in Spin-Off magazine that i modified. it was the issue about Blue Leicester.I think I used a different pattern for the band, but not sure about that either. That yarn was a blend of natural charcoal grey fleece carded with black llama and rainbow-dyed fleece in the blue-purple-magenta range. It’s darker in real life, and has kind of a shimmery quality from the changes in color. I spun the yarn after a long break from spinning, so it’s pretty inconsistent.

Knitted Hats

Knitted Hats
Knit Hat Patterns
Seed Stitch Hat

Handspinning Books

The Knitter’s Book of Wool: The Ultimate Guide to Understanding, Using, and Loving this Most Fabulous Fiber
The vast world of sheep and their wool into the language and context of knitting.
UK: Knitters Book of Wool

Intertwined: The Art of Handspun Yarn, Modern Patterns, and Creative Spinning (Handspun Revolution)
Experimental, handspun yarns, and includes recipes for handspun yarns, project ideas for knitters and crocheters, tips on how to use one-of-a-kind handspun yarns
UK: Intertwined

..more Handspinning books..

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How to Select a Fleece: aa011501

Here are a few things that I look for when choosing a fleece for handspinning.

Clean

The fleece should be fairly clean and free of vegetable matter and other dirt and debris. It is possible to clean and card the debris, but it is a lot of work, so take this into consideration in your purchase and in the price that you pay.

Crimp

Different breeds of sheep have varying amounts of crimp or waviness in the fibre. The amount of crimp affects how the fibre will spin and what type of yarn is spun from it. There are 2 general categories of crimp. Some are noticeably wavy such as the Romney, and other breeds have a more distinctive and closer together crimp, such as the Merino or Cheviot breeds. These are more suitable for spinning for light, fluffy sweater weights.


Photo comparing a Cheviot fleece(Left)

and a Romney(Right)

Washed (Bottom)and Unwashed (Top)samples

Lustre

Different breeds of sheep have varying amounts of lustre or sheen in the wool. The lustre affects how the light is reflected and what the finished product will look like. Some wools are more suitable for blankets, and others are better used for finely spun, and woven fabrics.

Staple Length

If you are a beginner spinner, look for a staple length between 2 – 3 inches. It is more difficult to spin longer staple lengths of 4-5 inches.

Strength

When checking a fleece, check for breaks in the staple. Give a few of the locks a gentle tug. It should not break easily. If you find that the tip breaks, this fleece is probably not suitable for handspinning. The breaks will work their way loose in the finished product and cause pilling.

Washed Sample

Ask to see a washed sample of the fleece. You can easily wash a small sample of the locks, in the kitchen sink. Just add a few drops of dishwashing liquid and wash the sample in warm water. This will remove most of the lanolin and you will be able to get an idea of what the clean fleece will look like. The yellow colour (the lanolin) should wash out. If the washed sample is still very yellow, then it would be best to look for another fleece instead.

More about Handspinning

Handspinning Info
Handspun Yarns

Handspinning Books

The Whole Craft of Spinning: From the Raw Material to the Finished Yarn
Everything you need to know from set-up to finished product in order to create distinctive yarns for use in knitting, weaving, crocheting, needlepoint, embroidery, and macrame.
UK: Whole Craft of Spinning

In Sheep’s Clothing
A comprehensive look at the characteristics of wool of 100 breeds of sheep, this guide gives special attention to fleece characteristics, methods of preparation and spinning, and best end use.
UK: In Sheep’s Clothing

The Knitter’s Book of Wool: The Ultimate Guide to Understanding, Using, and Loving this Most Fabulous Fiber
The vast world of sheep and their wool into the language and context of knitting.
UK: Knitters Book of Wool

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Sheeps Wool Fibre: sheepswool

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Wool
Not all wool is rough and itchy.

Woolen and Worsted
What is the difference between woolen and worsted yarns?

Apple Hollow Farm
Apple Hollow has a wide selection of looms, spinning wheels, yarns, fibres and weaving tales to amuse including Shetland, Highland and designer wool yarns .

Borgs Weaving Yarn
Sweden’s Borgs Vavgarner has a wide range of weaving yarns: linens, wools, cottons in 1000’s of colours.

Cornerstone Fibres
Angora blends, Romney wools, for the handspinner or have it spun for you.

Falkland Sheep & Wool
A truly delightful site, filled with lovely wools and lots of info about this unique region of the Falkland Islands.

Halcyon Yarn
Mail-order handknitting, machine knitting and weaving yarns. Spinning fibres, silks, wools: corriedale, coopworth, romney and domestic wool tops and rug-hooking kits are also available.

Hawks Mountain Ranch
Naturally coloured Icelandic sheep’s wool is their specialty.

Harrisville Yarn
Harrisville wool tweed and Shetland yarns. Available on cones for machine knitting or weaving and washed skeins for handknitting.
Louet
Louet has a good selection of wool yarns, suitable for blankets, woven cloth or delicate lace.

MacAusland’s Woollen Mills Ltd.
This family-owned spinning mill produces wool yarns in several weights: 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 ply.

Oriental Carpet Pile Yarns
Handspun long staple wool Ghazni from the northwest frontier highlands of Pakistan.

Peace Fleece
Peace Fleece is committed to helping historic enemies cooperate and prosper through trade. Peace Fleece offers yarns made from Russian/American, Israeli and Palestinian wools, suitable for knitting, weaving and rugmaking.

R & M Yarns
R & M has an ever changing selection of mill-end wool, cotton, rayon and acrylic yarns, suitable for machine knitting and weaving.

Spring Creek Organic Farm
Award winning organic Romney fleeces are raised with spinners, handweavers in fiber artists in mind.

Sugar Bush Hollow
Sugar Bush Hollow is a mother and daughter cottage industry that caters to all fiber enthusiasts. You can get Angora wool, Cormo fleece, and llama fiber or if you don’t spin yourself, they can spin it for you.

Thirteen Mile Lamb and Wool Company
At Thirteen Mile Lamb and Wool ranch, the sheep are raised in a predator-friendly atmosphere. Happy lambs growing happy wool.
Weavers Loft
Weavers Loft has a wide range of wools and spinning fibres: merino wools, angora, cashmere, silks, alpaca and other gourmet delights for the handspinner.

Webs Yarn Merchant
Webs is a mail-order supplier of specialty weaving yarns ranging from rayon chenille, to mohair and wool blends.

Wool Qualities
Why wool is good for you.

Yarn Barn
The Yarn Barn has lots of wool, rug yarns, cottons and linens in addition to their weaving equipment.

The Fleece and Fiber Sourcebook: More Than 200 Fibers, from Animal to Spun Yarn
This covers almost every sheep breed in the world — from the longwool breeds of the United Kingdom to the Tasmanian merino, the Navajo churro, the northern European Faroese, and dozens and dozens more. It also includes goats, camelids (such as alpacas, llamas, and vicunas), bison, horses, musk oxen, rabbits, and even dogs.
UK: Fleece and Fiber Source Book

The Whole Craft of Spinning: From the Raw Material to the Finished Yarn
Everything you need to know from set-up to finished product in order to create distinctive yarns for use in knitting, weaving, crocheting, needlepoint, embroidery, and macrame.
UK: Whole Craft of Spinning

more Handspinning books..
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#3 Shaker Signed JH antique spinning Wheel Sabbathday Lake Maine

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Early Antique Spinning Wheel

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Ashford Kiwi-3 Spinning Wheel - Unfinished, Folding Treadles - FREE Shipping

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