Tag Archives: sweater knitting

Knitting Pattern: Raglan Sweater: raglan

This is a hand knit sweater pattern that I designed for use with my handspun Shetland wool. I designed the pattern using knitting software by Knitware.ca
This knitting pattern makes a raglan sleeve jumper and is knit on circular needles from the bottom up. It is knit in a simple stocking stitch, but you can add your own special touches to it with a knitted motif such as the Sarah Lund jumper designs, or a cable knit.

Shetland handspun yarn

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Circular Bottom-Up Hip length Straight Pullover with Ribbing

Raglan shoulder with Full length Lantern/Straight sleeves with Ribbing
Round (crew) front neck and Flat back neck with Single Band collar

YARN DESCRIPTION:
SHETLAND HANDSPUN; NATURAL; PURE SHETLAND WOOL; HANDWASH ONLY

GAUGE DATA:
Gauge (Stocking Stitch over 4 in = 10 cm): 13.0 sts by 17.0 rows.
Body knit by hand on 8 mm circular needles
Ribbing knit by hand on 10 mm circular needles

FINISHED DIMENSIONS: (ins): … with Moderate fit.

Ladies 32 36 40 44
Chest: 36.7 40.4 43.6 47.8
Armhole: 16.6 17.4 18.6 19.4
Top Neck Opening: 6.0 6,5 7.0 8.0
Hem Width: 6.9 7.3 7.7 8.0
Front Neck Width: 3.0 3.3 3.5 3.8
Sleeve Top: 12.1 13.1 14.3 15.1
Front Neck Depth: 3.3 3.6 3.9 4.1
Hem Width: 35.6 39.2 42.3 46.4
Sleeve Bottom: 12.1 13.1 14.3 15.1
Sleeve Length: 16.5 16.8 17.0 17.0
Body Length: 27.0 28.1 29.1 29.8
Hem Length: 2.0 2.0 2.3 2.3
Collar Length: 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0
Hem Length: 2.5 2.5 2.8 2.8
Yarn Required in Grams 550-650 grams 600-750 grams 650-800 grams 700-850 grams

Because handspun yarns can vary quite a bit in weight, I have given approximate estimates of the amount of yarn required.

Note: Read ALL these instructions thoroughly BEFORE starting to knit. There may be sections where there are two shapings to work at the same time (such as necklines or waist shaping).

BODY: (HEM TO ARMHOLE)
1. Cast on 116 sts [128,138,150] on size 10 circular needle. Join the circle, taking care not to twist the stitches. Mark the side ‘seams’ at the beginning and at the halfway point(58 sts)[64,69,75]. Work in K1P1 ribbing for 2.5 ins. Inc 4 [4,4 ,6] sts evenly across the round to 120 sts [132,142,156]total.
2. Change to size 8 circular needle and Stocking Stitch. Work even until piece measures 16.2 [16.9,16.9,17.2]ins (69 rounds)[72,72,73], excluding hem.

raglan back

raglan front

SLEEVES: (HEM TO ARMHOLE)
1. Cast on 22 sts [24,25,26] on size 10 dp needles. Join the circle, taking care not to twist the stitches. Mark the ‘seam’ at the beginning of the round. Work in K1P1 ribbing for 2.0 ins.[2.00,2.3,2.3] Inc 17 sts [19,21,23] evenly across the round to 39 sts [43,46,49] total.
2. Change to size 8 dp needles and Stocking Stitch.
3. Work even until sleeve measures 14.5 ins [14.7,14.7,14.7] (62 rounds)[63,63,63], excluding hem.
4. Place these sts on a holder and work the second sleeve.

raglan sleeve

JOINING BODY AND SLEEVES:
1. Mark the front so you know which part of the body it is.
2. Underarm sts (four sets). Transfer 6[6,6 ,8] sts to a holder, centred at each of the four ‘seam’ markers on the body and the sleeves. These sts will be left unworked until the top shaping is complete, then sewn or grafted together to join the body and sleeve at the armhole.
3. Hold (and temporarily pin) the sleeves beside the body (all right side out), with the underarm sts and ‘seams’ matching. With the right side facing, and starting where the back meets the left sleeve, pick up and knit sts as follows: 33 [37,40,41] from the left sleeve, 54[60,65,70] from the front, 33 [37,40,41]from the right sleeve and 54[60,65,70] from the back. Total 174 sts [194,210,222]. At the same time, place four markers for the raglan shaping, one at each boundary between body and sleeve. Reminder: do NOT work the underarm sts.

RAGLAN YOKE:

SIZE 32
1. Work raglan shaping as follows: dec 1 st at front/back sides of each raglan marker on every 2nd round 17 times. At the same time, dec 1 st at sleeve sides of each raglan marker on every 3rd round 4 times, then every 2nd round 11 times. Work this raglan shaping while incorporating the front neckline shaping in the following steps.

SIZE 36
1. Work raglan shaping as follows: dec 1 st at front/back sides of each raglan marker on every 2nd round 16 times, then every round 4 times. At the same time, dec 1 st at sleeve sides of each raglan marker on every 3rd round once, then every 2nd round 16 times. Work this raglan shaping while incorporating the front neckline shaping in the following steps.

SIZE40
1. Work raglan shaping as follows: dec 1 st at front/back sides of each raglan marker on every 2nd round 18 times, then every round 3 times. At the same time, dec 1 st at sleeve sides of each raglan marker on every 2nd round 19 times. Work this raglan shaping while incorporating the front neckline shaping in the following steps.

SIZE44
1. Work raglan shaping as follows: dec 1 st at front/back sides of each raglan marker on every 2nd round 18 times, then every round 5 times. At the same time, dec 1 st at sleeve sides of each raglan marker on every 3rd round twice, then every 2nd round 17 times. Work this raglan shaping while incorporating the front neckline shaping in the following steps

2. Front Neckline. When yoke measures 5.0 ins [5.1,5.4,5.7] (at round 21)[21,23,25], break yarn at end of round and start neckline shaping as follows.
3. Divide for neck. Mark center 10 sts [10,11,12] of the front section for the bottom of neckline (13 sts [16,17,18] each side on the front). Slip sts between end of round and right neckline marker onto the right hand needle. With right side facing, rejoin yarn at left neckline marker, place sts between neckline markers on a holder, and work all the way around to the other neckline marker. From this point on, work back and forth in rows, instead of in rounds.
4. Shape neck. Dec 1 st at neck edge every row 3 [3,3,4]times.
5. Work even at neck edges, continuing raglan shaping. Continue work to total 36 rows [37,40,42] for yoke (28 sts remaining)[28,29,32].

ROUND (CREW) FRONT NECK SINGLE BAND COLLAR:
1. Transfer yoke sts to size 10 circular needle, then pick up and work 11 sts [12,14,15] from left front neck edge, 10 sts [10,11,12] from front neck holder, 11 sts [12,14,15] from right front neck edge. Total 60 sts.[62,68,74]
2. Work 1.0 ins (5 rows) in K1P1 ribbing.
3. Cast off loosely.

FINISHING:
1. Graft or sew the sleeve and body sts together at the underarms.
2. Darn/weave/sew in all loose ends.

Handknit Jumpers

Sarah Lund Brown Sweater
Sarah Lund White Jumper

Hand Spun Yarn

Shetland Handspun yarn
Hand Spun Shetland Knitting Yarn
Shop for my hand spun knitting yarns at Folksy. Lovely when knit as a ‘Lund’ style jumper.
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Knitting Books

Knitter’s Handy Book of Top-Down Sweaters: Basic Designs in Multiple Sizes and Gauges
Boyfriend Sweaters: 19 Designs for Him That You’ll Want to Wear
Patterns for Guernseys, Jerseys, and Arans: Fishermen’s Sweaters from the British Isles
Knitting Without Tears: Basic Techniques and Easy-to-Follow Directions for Garments to Fit All Sizes

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ANTIQUE SPINNING WHEEL / WALNUT / 33” HIGH

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Charkha book style spinning wheel

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How Long to Knit a Sweater

I often get asked “How long does it take to make a sweater?” That’s a complex question as we know. How long is a piece of string? It depends on a lot of factors. How big is the sweater, how complex is the pattern, what type of yarn are you using? How good is your knitting?
As I’ve been designing my latest handknit sweaters and jumpers, I have been considering this question a lot, so that I can price my work accordingly.
How Long Does it Take to Spin Yarn

Kromski Spinning Wheel
Kromski Spinning Wheel

How long it takes to handspin yarn depends on a lot of factors. How fine is the yarn that you are spinning? Finer yarn takes longer to spin. What type of fiber are you spinning? Some fibers are more difficult to spin and take longer. Are you also plying the yarn? How energetic are you today? Is your foot pedalling fast or slow? Handspinning is a physical activity, so how you are feeling affects the amount and type of yarn you can spin.

On a good day, I can spin a bobbin full of yarn in an hour – so about 100 grams. I also like to ply my yarns as it gives them a balanced and well finished look. Plying a bobbin takes about another half an hour.
An average sweater, depending on the size, uses approx 700 grams – 1000 grams of yarn. So to spin enough yarn to knit a sweater would take about 10-15 hours to spin, in the weight that I use for my handknits.

If the handspun yarn is also dyed, this is done after the yarn has been spun. I use natural and organic dyes with my yarns so this can be a long dye process depending on the dye that is used. The dyebath often has to be made the day before. The yarn is then mordanted and put into the dyebath. The dye process can take several hours. The dyed yarn is then removed from the dyebath, rinsed and allowed to dry.

How Long Does it Take to Knit a Jumper

Knitting
Knitting

Knitting depends on the skill of the knitter, the size of the sweater, and the complexity of the design. I have been knitting for a number of years, so I consider myself to be a fairly fast knitter. I usually knit in the evenings while watching TV, as I don’t need to concentrate a lot on the work. And I can watch TV without feeling guilty.

For an average cardigan with a simple design it takes me about 4-6 hours to knit the back of the sweater, about 3-4 hours to knit each sleeve and about 2-3 hours for each front piece.
How Long Does it Take to Weave

Sami Band Weaving
Sami Band Weaving

For my latest sweater, I am also adding a Sami style woven band as a trim. The band is handwoven on a Sami style weaving reed. Each row of the pattern is handpicked and woven according to the drafting plan. It takes a lot of concentration to pickup the correct threads and to weave with even tension. Again, how long this takes depends on the pattern width and the complexity of the design. For a simple design, I can weave about 25-30 cm per hour.

Isin Hand Knit Sweater
Isin Hand Knit Sweater

Sweater Finishing
When all the pieces have been knit, the work is not complete yet. The secret to a well made handknit is in the finishing. All the pieces must be carefully pressed and blocked. They are then handsewn together. And the edges, trims and buttons are then sewn on. Finishing can take up to another day to complete.

As you can see, making a jumper from scratch is a long and complex process. Surely we could invent a machine to do this faster for us… But then it wouldn’t be handmade, now would it?
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Knitting Patterns

750 Knitting Stitches: The Ultimate Knit Stitch Bible
The Knitter’s Book of Knowledge: A Complete Guide to Essential Knitting Techniques
The Knitter’s Book of Knowledge: A Complete Guide to Essential Knitting Techniques
Knitting For Beginners: The A-Z Guide to Have You Knitting in 3 Days (Includes 15 Knitting Patterns) (Knitting Patterns in Black&White)

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