Tag Archives: pickup weaving

How to Weave Pickup on a Band Loom

Further to my previous article about weaving pickup on a band loom, there is a quicker method that you can use. Previously, I had woven the pickup by individually picking up each pattern thread by hand. This method works but it is slow and is prone to errors, as it takes a lot of concentration to correctly pick up the pattern thread by thread.

Band Loom Pickup
Band Loom Pickup

The threading of the loom is done in the same way as I previously described. The ground warp is threaded through the 2 sets of heddles. The thicker pattern thread is not, so that it floats freely in the centre between the 2 ground warp threads.

The pattern threads can be set up for easy pickup by adding ties to the warp behind the heddles. Each warp thread that is to be picked up on a row has a corresponding pickup tie. All of the threads that are to be picked up on that row are then grouped together and numbered, so that it makes it easy to pull up on the threads as you weave. This is much like tying up the pedals on a jack or countermarche loom, or setting up the pattern sequence on a drawloom.

Weaving Pickup on Band Loom
Weaving Pickup on Band Loom

When setting up the loom it is necessary to analyze the pattern draft to determine the pattern sequence that is repeated. Each pattern pickup row is then raised in order of the pattern.

In order to tie the pickup threads, the pattern must be analyzed to determine how the pattern repeats.

For example in this simple 7 pattern thread design, there are 6 rows of pattern changes before the design repeats. So to set up this design, you will need to tie 6 sets of pattern thread groups.

The first one row picks up Pattern thread No. 1 and No. 7 – so tie thread loops around those 2 threads – and tape them together and Label as No. 1. To help me distinguish which row is what, I also use a different coloured pickup thread for each row.

The second row picks up Pattern threads No. 1, 2, 6 and 7 – so tie loops around those 4 threads – and tape them together and label as No. 2.

And so on until you have set up the 6 Pattern groups.

7 Pattern Thread Draft
7 Pattern Thread Draft

In this pattern, the pickup threads are the same, but the weaving sequence reverses going from 1 to 6, and back to 1.

7 Thread Pattern Draft
7 Thread Pattern Draft

I work from the side of the loom, so that I can easily reach both the front of the warp and the back, behind the heddles.
I use a small net shuttle to hold my yarn, so that my right hand is free to pickup the pattern groups. The small netting shuttle also acts as the beater for the weft. The shuttle is light weight so that when it drops, which it often does, it doesn’t put a lot of strain on the band, and the weft yarn doesn’t unravel and go all over the floor.

To weave the pickup, press on one of the foot pedals to raise the shaft.
All of the pattern threads should be floating in the centre, between the open shed.
With my right hand, I pull up on the first pattern group, No. 1. This raises only those pattern warp threads. Pass the shuttle through, under the raised pattern threads and the top ground threads.

Pickup Weaving on Band Loom
Pickup Weaving on Band Loom

Change the shed and beat.
Because you are weaving with a very tight sett on a narrow band, the warp has been pushed together very closely, the pattern threads tend to stick a bit. This needs to be cleared before you pick up the next pattern row. So make sure that all of the pattern threads are now again sitting in the middle of the warp, between the raised and lowered ground shafts.
(I have one set of pattern threads tied from the bottom, so that I can easily pull all of the pattern threads down when they get stuck.)

After you have cleared the shed, with your right hand, pick up the next pattern group and pass the shuttle through the raised pattern and ground threads.
As I work my way through picking up the pattern groups, I move them to the back of the loom, and then to the front again as I reverse direction. This helps me keep track of where I am, should I get interrupted.

Pattern Pickup on Band Loom
Pattern Pickup on Band Loom
Band Loom Pickup
Band Loom Pickup
11 Thread Pattern Draft
11 Thread Pattern Draft

Etsy
Look for handwoven bands and belts in my PaivatarYarns Etsy Shop.

Band Weaving Books

Band Weaving: The Techniques, Looms, and Uses for Woven Bands

Handwoven Tape: Understanding and Weaving Early American and Contemporary Tape

Norwegian Pick-Up Bandweaving

Tape Loom Weaving… Simplified

The Weaver’s Inkle Pattern Directory: 400 Warp-Faced Weaves

Inkle Loom Schacht Spindle Wood Card Weaving Tablet Hard Maple Belt Band Shuttle

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Home Made Inkle Loom

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Mini 5" Inkle Traveling Loom with Shuttle

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Karelian Crafts

Karelian Basketry
Birchbark basket weaving.

Leno Lace Pickup
A special type of lace pickup weave technique.

Blue Skirts, Golden Belts

Ancient Land of Karelians
One of the traditional crafts of Karelia was splinter or birchbark weaving.

Heikinpaiva 2002
The craft of birchbark weaving is taught at the Finnish Festival in Michigan.

Karelian Crafts
Karelian weaving, pickup, open-work lace, birchbark weaving and other traditional crafts.

Karelia Books

Norwegian Mittens and Gloves: Over 25 Classic Designs for Warm Fingers and Stylish Hands
Presenting a beautiful selection of 29 classic figurative concepts. In addition to several animal motifs, the compilation also charts figure and border patterns,

AMBUSH
mbush takes place in the first days of WWII in Russia Karelia by the Finnish border.

A Year In South Karelia
This is a book for anyone who has ever wondered what it’s like to live in Finland. Topics include language, cultural differences, holidays, music, sport, food, and the people, places and things that make them all possible. This is also a book for any Finn who ever wondered how the world sees them, their country and their culture.
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Double Slot Weaving Reed

Sami double slot weaving reed

I found this Sami weaving reed in a small craft shop in Sweden. It is used to weave traditional Sami style belts and bands. The reed is similar to a standard rigid heddle but has an extra set of slots that are designed to carry the pattern warp. The regular holes and slots carry the background warp threads. The background warp weaves a basket weave pattern and the pattern threads float on top of the warp threads.

Sami Rigid Heddle Band Weaving
Sami Rigid Heddle Band Weaving

As I was researching about how to weave pickup with this loom, it was recommended that the warp should be attached to a weaving belt tied around your waist (similar to a backstrap loom) or to a ‘weaving board’ where the front and back of the warp are tied to pegs attached to a long wooden board. Since I don’t have a handy DIY guy who could make such a weaving board for me, I found an art board at The Coln Gallery, my local art shop that I thought would work instead. I attached the front of the warp to the bottom edge of the board with a large paper clip. And I tied the back end of the warp to the warping board that is attached to my loom. As I weave, I advance the warp and tighten the tension on the paper clip. This method seems to work quite well.

Sami Band Weaving
Sami Band Weaving

When you raise or lower this weaving reed, the background warp threads lift or lower, creating a shed for weaving. The pattern warp threads remain in the center of the shed.
This makes it quite easy to pick up the pattern threads that you wish to raise according to the pattern.
So that I don’t get mixed up about when to raise or lower the reed, when I throw the shuttle from the left, I raise the reed. When I throw the shuttle from the right, I drop or lower the reed.
The weaving draft can be read from the top down or from the bottom up, according to your preference.

Sami Band Weaving
Sami Band Weaving

Weaving from the Left
Raise the reed. This raises the group of warp threads and creates a shed.
Pick up the pattern threads from the middle of the warp, according to the draft plan.
Hold these pattern threads up along with the warp threads that have been raised.

Throw the shuttle from the left to the right and gently pull the weft thread to adjust the tension.

Weaving from the Right
Allow the reed to drop, lowering the warp threads and raising the alternate warp threads.
Pick up the next row of pattern threads,.
In this example I have lifted #2,#6,#10 pattern threads along with the raised background warp threads.

Sami Band Weaving
Sami Band Weaving

Then beat the previous weft row into place using your finger and adjust the tension for an even beat.

Throw the shuttle from the right to the left and pull the weft thread into place, adjusting the tension.

Sami Band Weaving
Sami Band Weaving
Sami Band Weaving
Sami Band Weaving

In this example, throwing the shuttle from the left, I have raised pattern threads #1, #3, #9, #11

Sami Band Loom
Sami Band Loom

Felting and Finishing

When you weave this belt, the weave structure will be quite loose, similar to when you are weaving a wool blanket or other item. After weaving, it is best to lightly felt it, so that the weave structure will come together. The weave pattern has long floats. Once it has been felted these floats will work their way into the cloth.
I felted this belt by handwashing it quite vigorously in the sink – with a bit of dish soap and hot water. And rinsed in cold water to help shock the wool and make the felting process go more quickly.

Sami Band Woven Belt
Sami Band Woven Belt

More about Sami Band Weaving

Rigid Heddle Pickup Patterns

Saami Bandweaving

Saami Double Hole Looms

Sami Weaving Drafts

How to Warp a Sami Loom

How to Weave on a Beaivi Sami loom

Stoorstalka Weaving Reeds
A traditional Sami weaving reed made of modern materials. Stoorstalka now makes several designs of Sami Weaving reeds: standard, double slot ‘Sunna’ and double hole ‘Beaivi’ – and also a new Sami style weaving shuttle ‘Gehpa’. Wonderful!

You can now purchase them in my PaivatarYarn Etsy Shop

Beaivi Style Sami Weaving Reed
Beaivi Style Sami Weaving Reed

Wooden Weaving Shuttels
Wooden Weaving Shuttels


Background of the modern Sami Weaving Loom

Why not a good old loom made of reindeer horn?

2 Hole Weaving Reed
My New Weaving Loom.

Michael Williams Woodworking
A place to buy handmade wooden weaving reeds, shuttles and other weaving tools

Sami Weaving Books

Sue Foulkes has written a few books about Sami band weaving and using a Sunna heddle.

Saami Music – Itunes

Binna Banna – Kikki Aikio
Áphi (Wide As Oceans) – Sofia Jannok
Ulda – Ulla Pirttijärvi & Ulda
The Kautokeino Rebellion (Music from the Movie) – Herman Rundberg, Mari Boine & Svein Schultz
Beaivi, Áhcázan (The Sun, My Father) – Nils-Aslak Valkeapää

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Doubleweave pickup: bltan-pickup

Double Weave Pickup

Well Folks, I tried a new technique today, it’s from the Jan/Feb 1999 issue of Handwoven. You can see the page I did at my pickup page which describes my technique more.

doubleweave pickup

This is the partially finished project.

doubleweave pickup

I lifted up shafts 2 & 4 and picked up with the knitting needle all the stitches that were the pattern,
then I pushed the needle to the beater.

doubleweave pickup

I let go of 2 & 4 and lifted shaft 1.

doubleweave pickup

Leaving shaft 1 up,
I threw the background weft (the yellow) from the right, then beat.

doubleweave pickup

I then lifted shafts 1&3 and picked up with the knitting needle all the background parts of the pattern.

doubleweave pickup

I then lifted shaft 2 and then threw the pattern weft from the right.
I repeated this process again, throwing from the left, and lifting shafts 3, then 4.
I kept this up until I was done and the middle square was actually a pocketed double weave…. So I stuffed it with poly-fill, and then threw the next background and pattern weft and followed the process for awhile:

This is time consuming but it’s really neat!

Tantrika2

Pickup Weaving

Leno Lace Pickup
Rigid Heddle Pickup
Beaivi Rigid Heddle Loom
Finnweave Pickup
Weaving Books
Norwegian pick-up and designs for double weave
The Weaver’s Journal : Interview with Jack Lenor Larsen; Wire Weaving; Woven Felted Boots; 4-shaft Twill Neck Scarf; Loom Controlled Quilted Fabrics; Simple Matelasse By the Pick-up Method; Matelasse Double Cloth Stiched to Form the Design (Vol. 7 No. 1, Summer 1982)
Magic of Doubleweave: The Best of Weaver’s (Best of Weaver’s series)
The Weaver’s Studio: Doubleweave
Doubleweave: On Four to Eight Shafts by Ursina Arn-Grischott (2000-06-28)

The Weaver’s Companion (The Companion Series)
The Weaver’s Companion (The Companion Series)
Learning to Weave
The Big Book of Weaving: Handweaving in the Swedish Tradition: Techniques, Patterns, Designs and Materials

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Leno Lace: aa101097

This is a continuation of the previous article on weaving leno lace.

Using the same technique described previously, instead of picking up the next 2 threads, 4 threads are picked up instead, creating a larger version of the leno twist.

leno lace

Starting from the right, depress the right pedal and weave in about 1/2 inch. Change pedals (left) and weave back to the edge. Change pedals (right) and again weave in about 1/2 inch. This strengthens the edge, and sets the length of the lace.

Change pedals (left). Using your forefinger, pick up the next 4 raised threads (dark green).
Holding the 4 threads that you picked up in the previous step to the right, reach underneath them, and pick up the other 4 threads (light blue) pulling them slightly to the left. Holding onto the light blue threads, allow the first 4 (dark green) threads to drop.

Pass the shuttle through the twist that has formed (between the light blue threads that are on top and the dark green threads that are now underneath). Draw the yarn through and repeat the above steps to the last 1/2 inch of the warp.

When you have woven to the left edge, again weave a tabby shot twice to finish the edge.
Drop the shed and beat several times to place the weft evenly across.

Pressing the left pedal, throw the shuttle from the left. Again at the right edge, weave 2 shots of tabby for the first 1/2 inch.

This type of pick-up weave makes an attractive border. The double twist can also be used occasionally throughout a plain tabby weave fabric, adding an interesting effect to the fabric. In this case, omit the extra tabby shots at the edges of the fabric.

More…
Hemp, Huck and Leno Lace

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NEWCOMB WEAVERS DELIGHT WEAVING LOOM/ DAVENPORT IOWA

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