Tag Archives: how to warp

How to Warp a Band Loom

To warp my new Glimakra band loom, I use a method that is similar to the way that I warp my large floor looms, front-to-back. The total length of the band loom is about a meter, a comfortable distance to reach both the back and the front beams of the loom, if you sit on the side, facing the heddles. This will feel a bit awkward at first, if you are used to working from the front beam of a floor loom. But everything is accessible, the front beam, the heddles, the back beam and the pedals. I do find the loom a bit high so that my shoulders get sore while working on it. Sitting on a higher chair such as a dining room chair, or the weaving bench helps to alleviate this problem.
I wind the warp on a warping board. When making narrow striped bands, you do need to change colours frequently, but it isn’t difficult to tie the previous end to the warping peg, and tie on a new colour.
In this simple band, I am using 40 ends of different colours. The draft shows which shaft to thread the yarn through alternating between the 2 shafts, Shaft 1 (Front heddle) Shaft 2 (Back heddle)

Band Loom Weaving Draft
Band Loom Weaving Draft

I have used 8/2 cotton for this band, but you can use any weight of yarn that you wish.
Turquoise Blue 20 Ends
Yellow 8 Ends
Red 8 Ends
Purple 4 Ends
Total 40 Ends
Warp Length: 3.5 Meters (including loom waste)

Band Loom Warp
Band Loom Warp

After winding the warp onto the warping board, I insert the lease sticks into the cross, and remove the warp from the warping board.

I use masking tape, to temporarily attach the warp onto the front beam of the band loom.

Band Loom Lease Sticks
Band Loom Lease Sticks

While sitting on the side of the loom, directly in front of the heddles, I move all of the heddles close to the front. Again, I use a small piece of masking tape on the last heddle, to prevent them from falling off the pegs while I am warping. I start to thread the heddles, working from the back of the loom to the front.
I select the warp ends from the lease sticks and thread each end through the next heddle, alternating between the Front and Back heddles according to the draft. The lease sticks keep the warp in threading order as I warp.
I find it easier to use my fingers to thread the texsolv heddles, rather than using a threading hook.

Band Loom Lease Sticks
Band Loom Lease Sticks
Band Loom Warping
Band Loom Warping

When all of the warp ends have been threaded, I tie them to the back beam.
I use 2 texsolv heddles to attach the rods to the back beam, rather than using the texsolv cord that was provided with the loom. I find the texsolv cord to be a bit too heavy.

Band Loom Texsolv
Band Loom Texsolv

I now remove the lease sticks – they aren’t really needed anymore as the warp threads are all in perfect order. I find it easier to wind on a smooth warp without the sticks.
Again, sitting at the side of the loom, directly in front of the heddles, I hold the warp threads with my left hand, and slowly wind the warp onto the back beam, winding the warp with my right hand. Occasionally I have to stop, and gently comb out any loose ends, and continue winding.

Wind Warp on Band Loom
Wind Warp on Band Loom
Wind Warp onto Band Loom
Wind Warp onto Band Loom

As I am winding the warp onto the back beam, I insert one of the warp sticks with each revolution. This helps to keep the warp tensioning even as you are winding on.

Warp Sticks on Band Loom
Warp Sticks on Band Loom

Once the warp has all been wound onto the back beam, I adjust the warp tension and tie the ends to the front beam.

Wind Warp onto Band Loom
Wind Warp onto Band Loom

As there is no reed on a band loom to help keep an even sett, weaving on a band loom is a bit more free form than weaving on a conventional table or floor loom. I find that it always takes a few inches of weaving, to determine the correct weaving tension in order to get straight edges.

Weaving Tape on Band Loom
Weaving Tape on Band Loom

More About Band Looms
Band Loom Pickup – Simplified
Band Loom Pickup
Glimakra Band Loom Assembly

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Band Loom Weaving Books
Tape Loom Weaving… Simplified
Handwoven Tape: Understanding and Weaving Early American and Contemporary Tape
Norwegian Pick-Up Bandweaving
The Weaver’s Inkle Pattern Directory: 400 Warp-Faced Weaves

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Rigid Heddle Looms

Jo posted these pictures and instructions on how to warp a Rigid Heddle loom, to our Forum.
WarpingARigidHeddle1.jpg, 25831 bytes

1. tie the end of your warp to the anchor (at a distance that is the length of the warp you want…..
NOTE: clamp loom to a stable surface….
WarpingARigidHeddle2.jpg, 25774 bytes

2. Sley the slots (only) in the reed – by looping the end of the thread. The slip that loop over the stick attached to the back roller……
WarpingARigidHeddle3.jpg, 25025 bytes

Repeat this till the warp is the width you require…..
wrap around your anchor and then unwind the yarn to the heddle and pull loop of yarn through the next slot and so on……..

WarpingARigidHeddle4.jpg, 18870 bytes

This is what your finished warp will look like…..

WarpingARigidHeddle5.jpg, 35476 bytes

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Another view of finished warp….

WarpingARigidHeddle6.jpg, 14939 bytes

Now it is the time to cut the warp from your anchor…..
It may be best to have someone help you wind the warp as this can help keep even tention and makes it a lot easier for you……..
WarpingARigidHeddle7.jpg, 33807 bytes

I usually put paper between the layers of wound warp on the back beam……
When you get about 1 foot away from the “fixed” heddle (your heddle should be in the “fixed” position throughout warping)….
It is now time to sley the holes…..
take the top thread from the slot, starting on the left and put it in the hole to the right……

WarpingARigidHeddle8.jpg, 33040 bytes

Now it’s time to tie the warp to the front stick that is attched to the front roller/beam…..
Please be sure to tie with even tention…..
Here is what the warped loom looks like…..

WarpingARigidHeddle9.jpg, 30970 bytes

Now it is time to weave……
usually you need to weave what’s called a “heading”…..just a few wefts till the warp is even (notice the taping at the front – you just want to get past this). When you put in a weft thread into the warp angle it up toward the heddle at about 45 degree angle – this will help to prevent the weaving drawing in at the sides…….
WarpingARigidHeddle10.jpg, 26842 bytes

Now beat down that weft – not too hard – if you pack them down too hard your fabric may not drape as nicely.
Finally, always wet finish your piece. I wash my woolen item in the washing mashine with hot water but others prefer warm water or even hand washing – this can be an area to experiment as the wet finish can make or break a piece…..
Happy Weaving !!

Knee Rugs woven on a Rigid Heddle Loom
rigidheddle1.jpg, 41083 bytes

rigidheddle2.jpg, 36121 bytes

rigidheddle3.jpg, 38206 bytes

rigidheddle4.jpg, 31092 bytes

rigidheddle5.jpg, 33213 bytes

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Rigid Heddle Weaving

Rigid Heddle Pickup Weaving
Beaivi Rigid Heddle Loom
Double Hole Rigid Heddle
Sami Weaving Drafts

Weaving Books

Weaving Made Easy: 17 Projects Using a Simple Loom
The small, portable rigid heddle loom can be used to easily produce loose, drape-friendly fabric as well as dense, sturdy material.
UK: Weaving Made Easy

The Weaver’s Idea Book: Creative Cloth on a Rigid Heddle Loom
Techniques include leno, Brooks bouquet, soumak, and embroidery on fabric.
UK: Weavers Idea Book

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How to Warp a Saami Rigid Heddle: warpreed

To put a warp onto a Beaivi Sami weaving loom is a fairly simple process. I use my warping board that is attached to the back of my loom to measure the warp – similar to preparing a warp for any other loom. While I am measuring the warp, I thread the Beaivi loom at the same time. I thread 2 warp ends through each slot of the Beaivi weaving reed as I am warping. I found that the drilled holes are too small to thread easily without using a needle for threading, so I will transfer the warp threads to the holes after I have measured the warp.

Beaivi loom

After I have threaded all the ground warp threads through the slots according to the drafting plan, I then thread the thicker pattern warp threads, also threading them through the slots.

I carefully remove the warp from the warping board, creating a warp chain as I am removing it – again similar to the warping process for the regular loom.

I don’t use a weaving frame, inkle loom or a box loom for this type of weaving. I find it simpler (and more portable) to tie one end of the warp to the back of a chair or onto one of the pegs of my warping board. The other end – that you weave from – can be tied to your waist, similar to weaving on a backstrap loom. Instead of tying the warp to my waist, I use a small art board and paperclip the other end to the edge of the art board. The art board then sits on my lap as I work, and I also have a suface that I can attach the weaving pattern to. I find this system to be much easier on my back than trying to adjust the warp tension with my waist.

When I first received my Beaivi loom, I found that some of the small drilled holes were a bit tight to fit a threading needle through. I loosened the holes by wiggling the end of the needle in the hole for a bit.

thread Beaivi loom

I place the warp chain and reed onto the art board and cut one end of the warp.
I now transfer one of the ground warp threads that are currently in the slots into the bottom row of holes. Using a large tapestry needle I then transfer one of the ground warp threads from each slot into the adjacent bottom hole. So that the ground warp threads are now threaded with 1 warp thread in a slot alternating with the next ground warp thread in the bottom hole. I tie a knot at the end of the warp to secure all the warp threads in place.
Using the threading needle, then I thread the thicker pattern threads into the correct top row of holes. And tie a knot at the end of these warp threads to secure them.

I then clip all of the warp ends to the edge of the art board using a large paperclip.
I tie the other warp end to a peg on my warping board and adjust the tension. And begin to weave.

I begin by weaving a few inches without picking up any of the pattern threads. I let these remain on top. I find that this makes it easier to get the correct tension for the tabby ground weave, before I start to weave the pattern into the design. The weft should be pulled quite tightly so that the tabby ground is sett quite closely resulting in a firm weave. This will allow the pattern warp to float above the ground weave.

Beaivi 2 Hole Rigid Heddle Loom
How to weave pickup with the Sami style 2 hole weaving reed.

Saami weaving loom

Beaivi:

      Wikipedia
    Beaivi (or Päivi in Finnish) is the Sami name for the Sun or Sun deity. In Sami myth, she travels with her daughter Beaivi-nieida through the sky in an enclosure covered by reindeer bones, bringing green plants back to the winter earth for the reindeer to eat. She was also called upon to restore the mental health of those who went insane because of the continual darkness of the long winter.

Sami Weaving

Sami Rigid Heddle Weaving
Beaivi Rigid Heddle Loom
Sami Weaving Drafts
Rigid Heddle Pickup
2 Hole Weaving Reed
Double Slot Weaving Reed

Sue Foulkes has written a few books about Sami band weaving and using a Sunna heddle.

Band Weaving
Simple finger-woven bands, soda-straw loom bands,hungarian-loom bands,twining-loom bands,rigid-heddle bands,band weaving on the american inkle loom,card-woven bands andweaving variations for special effects.

Inkle Weaving
Inkle weaving basics, how to get started and more.

Band. Vävda Band, Brickband, Flätade Band Och Pinnband Av Ull, Lin Och Bomull / Weaving Bands: Woven Bands / Table Bands / Plaited Bands / Insertion Bands [
Woven Bands – in Swedish.

Väva I Bandgrind

The Weaver’s Inkle Pattern Directory: 400 Warp-Faced Weaves
An overview of inkle weaving’s history and traditions, instructions for loom set-up and simple techniques and 400 woven patterns.

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Counterbalance Loom Setup: aa101800

Yes, you can get a good shed on a counterbalance loom. It is just a matter of balance. The main thing to remember, is if the loom tie-ups are not centered, then weight of the shafts are not balanced, and you will not be able to get an even shed.

You can even weave 3/1 patterns successfully. Your shed will be a bit smaller, but wide enough for a shuttle to pass through.

It is easiest to fine tune and balance your loom, once a warp is threaded. Here’s how I do it.

counterbalance loom

counterbalance loom

  • Start at the top of the loom and locate the centre.
  • This Glimakra loom is 60″ wide, so the centre is at 30″.
  • Now locate the centre point from both edges to the centre. This is where the upper pulleys for the shafts should be placed.
  • The pulley is 1″ wide, so I place it at 14.5″ from the edge of the loom.


It is important that the tie-up to the shafts is perpendicular and centered and that each tie-up yarn is of equal length.
I use texsolv cord, as it is easy to check that each cord is the same length, by counting the number of loops in the cord.

  • The distance between the notches on the horses is 6″.
  • To check that the tie-ups to the shafts are also perpendicular, they should also be 6″ apart, and the texsolv cords should be at right angles to the upper shafts.
  • The distance from the edge of the shaft to the outer tie-up cord is 13″.

  • With your loom threaded, check on the side of the loom to see that the warp is running through at the centre of the heddles.
  • If necessary, adjust the height of the cords that run from the upper pulleys to the horses.
  • On this loom, this distance is 12″.

Interweave Books and Videos
Counterbalance Loom
icon
Tie-Ups and Marguerite Davison
icon

Counterbalance Loom Setup: aa101800

Under the Loom

Once you have balanced the top of the loom, you can now set up the treadles.

To hold the pedals in place while doing the tie-up, I prop them up on a rod.
A broom handle and a couple of boxes work fine for this.

I use Texsolv cord for the pedal tie-up as well.

Each cord is the same length, to ensure that the lamms are balanced.

They should be tied so that they are parallel and level.

Locate the center point of the first shaft, and tie a cord from the shaft to the first lamm, at its centre.

The first shaft is tied to the first lamm, the second shaft is tied to the second lamm, and so on. Repeat for each shaft and lamm.

Now you can tie the lamms to the pedals, depending on your peg plan.

In this photo, the tie-up is for a tabby, so the first pedal is tied to lamms 1 & 3 and the second pedal is tied to lamms 2 & 4.

Make sure that the ties are taut – no slack.
Once you begin to weave, the cords may stretch slightly, especially if they are new, so this may require some adjustment.

That’s it!

Remember to remove the broom handle you used for a pedal support, and any other rods or sticks you might have used for support during the tie-up.

With a good shed, the horses should create an almost 90″ angle when a pedal is fully depressed.

Note: I have placed a rod through the small holes at the ends of the shafts, to help hold them in place while setting up the loom.

Weaving Looms

Counterbalance Loom Tie-up Diagram

How to Tie up a Countermarche Loom

Countermarche Loom Diagrams
Weaving Books
The Weaver’s Companion (The Companion Series)
The Weaver’s Companion (The Companion Series)
Learning to Weave
The Big Book of Weaving: Handweaving in the Swedish Tradition: Techniques, Patterns, Designs and Materials

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Weaving Looms – Countermarche Tie-up: cmarchetieup

countermarche loom
These photos and diagrams were originally printed in:

Handbok Iveving
J.W. Carpelens Forlag
CentralTrykkeriet, Oslo
1958
I have added the Red lettering to the diagrams, to help in identifying the tie-ups.

When you begin to tie the pedals on a countermarche loom, make sure that the stabilizing pin is in place at the top of the loom. This holds the jacks in place while you tie the pedals.

When you tie a countermarche loom, all the ties have to be level. All the cords have to be equal length for each harness. Using Texsolv cord makes this an easier task because you can count the number of loops in the cord and also make small adjustments by moving the pegs up or down one loop. I also use a small carpenters level to check that the harnesses are level. There are 2 types of countermarche looms. One of them (Type A) has 2 sets of levers or jacks at the top of the loom that rotate on a center axle. A,B, C. The other type (Type B) has 1 lever or jack in the center and a set of pulleys.

Type B
countermarche loom tieup

Countermarche Loom Pattern Tie-up

The pattern tie-up is the same for both types of countermarche looms.

Bottoms Up

The Bottom Lamm – J -raises the shafts. When the Bottom Lamm is tied to the pedals and depressed, this pulls on the Top lever (C – D) causing A to rise. This raises the shaft at B. Tops Down

The Top Lamm – I – lowers the shafts. The Top Lamm is tied to the Centre of the Bottom Shaft at E – F. When the pedals are tied to the Top Lamm, this pulls down on the shaft causing it to lower.

For a Rising Shed tie-up, I tie all the Bottom Lamm sheds first. Then I go back and tie the Top Lamms.

To hold the pedals in place while doing the tie-up, I prop them up on a rod.
A broom handle and a couple of boxes work fine for this.

When tying up a pattern for a countermarche loom, you only need to tie up the number of treadles that you require for the pattern. The other treadles can be left untied and sitting on the floor. But you will need to tie up each shaft that is operating – to either a top or a bottom lamm, on each pedal. If you are using 4 shafts and 6 pedals, you will need to make 24 ties. Example:

This table describes the tie-ups necessary for a standard tabby and twill tie-up.

Pedal 1 Shaft 1 & 3 raised J – K
Tie the Shafts that will be raised by Pedal 1 Tie Bottom Lamm 1 to the Pedal
If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through the hole# 1 in #1 Lamm and to the corresponding hole # 1 on the Pedal 1Tie Bottom Lamm 3 to Pedal #1
If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through the hole# 1 in #3 Bottom Lamm and to the corresponding hole # 3 on the PedalI – KNow tie the other 2 shafts that will be pulled down (Shafts 2 & 4 to Pedal #1

Tie Top Lamm #2 to Pedal #1

If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through hole #1 in Top Lamm #2. Pass the cord behind the Bottom Lamm – not through the hole or you will lock up your loom. Tie the cord to the corresponding hole #2 in Pedal 1.

Tie Top Lamm #4 to Pedal #1

If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through hole #1 in Top Lamm #4. Pass the cord behind the Bottom Lamm – not through the hole or you will lock up your loom. Tie the cord to the corresponding hole #4 in Pedal 1.

Pedal 2 Shaft 2 & 4 raised J – K
Tie Bottom Lamm 2 to the Pedal #2
If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through the hole# 2 in #2 Lamm and to the corresponding hole # 2 on the Pedal 2Tie Bottom Lamm 4 to Pedal #2
If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through the hole #2 in #4 Bottom Lamm and to the corresponding hole # 4 on Pedal #2I – KNow tie the other 2 shafts that will be pulled down (Shafts 1 & 3 to Pedal #2

Tie Top Lamm #1 to Pedal #2

If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through hole #2 in Top Lamm #1. Pass the cord behind the Bottom Lamm – not through the hole or you will lock up your loom. Tie the cord to the corresponding hole #1 in Pedal 2.

Tie Top Lamm #3 to Pedal #2

If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through hole #2 in Top Lamm #3. Pass the cord behind the Bottom Lamm – not through the hole or you will lock up your loom. Tie the cord to the corresponding hole #3 in Pedal 2.

Pedal 3 Shaft 1 & 2 raised J – K
Tie Bottom Lamm 1 to the Pedal #3
If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through the hole# 3 in #1 Lamm and to the corresponding hole # 1 on the Pedal 3Tie Bottom Lamm 2 to Pedal #3
If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through the hole# 3 in #2 Bottom Lamm and to the corresponding hole # 2 on the Pedal 3I – KNow tie the other 2 shafts that will be pulled down (Shafts 3 & 4 to Pedal #3

Tie Top Lamm #3 to Pedal #3

If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through hole #3 in Top Lamm #3. Pass the cord behind the Bottom Lamm – not through the hole or you will lock up your loom. Tie the cord to the corresponding hole #3 in Pedal 3.

Tie Top Lamm #4 to Pedal #3

If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through hole #3 in Top Lamm #4. Pass the cord behind the Bottom Lamm – not through the hole or you will lock up your loom. Tie the cord to the corresponding hole #4 in Pedal 3.

Pedal 4 Shaft 2 & 3 raised J – K
Tie Bottom Lamm 2 to the Pedal #4
If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through the hole# 4 in #2 Lamm and to the corresponding hole # 2 on the Pedal 4Tie Bottom Lamm 3 to Pedal #4
If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through the hole# 4 in #3 Bottom Lamm and to the corresponding hole # 3 on the Pedal 4I – KNow tie the other 2 shafts that will be pulled down (Shafts 1 & 4 to Pedal #4

Tie Top Lamm #1 to Pedal #4

If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through hole #4 in Top Lamm #1. Pass the cord behind the Bottom Lamm – not through the hole or you will lock up your loom. Tie the cord to the corresponding hole #1 in Pedal 4.

Tie Top Lamm #4 to Pedal #4

If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through hole #4 in Top Lamm #4. Pass the cord behind the Bottom Lamm – not through the hole or you will lock up your loom. Tie the cord to the corresponding hole #4 in Pedal 4.

Pedal 5 Shaft 3 & 4 raised J – K
Tie Bottom Lamm 3 to the Pedal #5
If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through the hole#5 in #3 Lamm and to the corresponding hole # 3 on the Pedal 5Tie Bottom Lamm 4 to Pedal #5
If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through the hole# 5 in #4 Bottom Lamm and to the corresponding hole # 4 on the Pedal 5I – KNow tie the other 2 shafts that will be pulled down (Shafts 1 & 2 to Pedal #5

Tie Top Lamm #1 to Pedal #5

If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through hole #5 in Top Lamm #1. Pass the cord behind the Bottom Lamm – not through the hole or you will lock up your loom. Tie the cord to the corresponding hole #1 in Pedal 5.

Tie Top Lamm #2 to Pedal #5

If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through hole #5 in Top Lamm #2. Pass the cord behind the Bottom Lamm – not through the hole or you will lock up your loom. Tie the cord to the corresponding hole #2 in Pedal 5.

Pedal 6 Shaft 1 & 4 raised J – K
Tie Bottom Lamm 1 to the Pedal #6
If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through the hole# 6 in #1 Lamm and to the corresponding hole # 1 on the Pedal 6Tie Bottom Lamm 4 to Pedal #6
If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through the hole# 6 in #4 Bottom Lamm and to the corresponding hole # 4 on the Pedal 6I – KNow tie the other 2 shafts that will be pulled down (Shafts 2 & 3 to Pedal #6

Tie Top Lamm #2 to Pedal #6

If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through hole #6 in Top Lamm #2. Pass the cord behind the Bottom Lamm – not through the hole or you will lock up your loom. Tie the cord to the corresponding hole #2 in Pedal 6.

Tie Top Lamm #3 to Pedal #6

If using Texsolv, run the Texsolv cord through hole #6 in Top Lamm #3. Pass the cord behind the Bottom Lamm – not through the hole or you will lock up your loom. Tie the cord to the corresponding hole #3 in Pedal 6.

Done! Now remove all the balancing pegs and test the treadling. If your pedals fall to the floor you will need to adjust the lengths of the cords, shortening them slightly. It may take a bit of adjusting to get this right, but once you have the loom balanced and running, it will be a joy to weave on. Changing tie-ups for different patterns isn’t as difficult as it appears. Often you may only have to change a few of the upper or lower lamm cord.
double beam countermarche loom
Double Beam Countermarche Loom

Weaving Looms

Counterbalance Loom Tie-up
Countermarche Looms

Handweaving Books

The Big Book of Weaving: Handweaving in the Swedish Tradition: Techniques, Patterns, Designs and Materials
This book covers basic subjects such as warping a loom and making bobbins of weft, as well as more elaborate, highly decorative projects: baby blankets, shawls, table cloths, and linen hand towels.
UK: Big Book of Weaving

The Treasure Chest of Swedish Weaving
Complete pattern drafts for rugs, curtain, table cloths, towels, bedspreads.
UK: Treasure Chest of Swedish Weaving

Hand Weaving Patterns From Finland
UK: Handweaving Patterns from Finland

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Erica 25" Rigid Heddle Frame Weaving Loom Vintage Wood Frame Northfield

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Water Jug Warping: aa041000

Do you ever want to warp your loom and are waiting to find another weaver or friend, or family member who is willing and able to help you wind the warp? During one of our recent Chat sessions,Sandra explained her method or warping. She uses water jugs to weight her warp, while winding. The jugs should have a handle.(plastic milk jugs work well) This weighting method works for either Back-to-Front (B2F) or Front-to-Back (F2B). You will have even tension and no longer have to rely on a friendly family member to assist.

water jug warping

Photos: (c) SandraC

  • Divide warp into no larger than 6″ sections.
  • Fill enough jugs with water, so all are equal weight, to go across whole
    warp. It is important that all are the same weight.
  • Straighten and smooth each section of warp so all threads are as close to equally tensioned.
  • Make a slipknot in each section.
  • On each water jug, make a loop and use a knot to hook it onto the handle.
  • Hook the loop on the water jug around the slipknot in the warp (trust me it will hold, I didn’t think so either until I saw it).
  • Do this for all sections of warp.
  • Then start winding warp onto beam, until jugs reach the breast beam.
  • Then untie, and do it all over again

Warping a Loom

Counterbalance Looms
Countermarche Looms
How to Improve your Woven Edges
How to Warp a Loom

The Weaver’s Studio: Doubleweave
How to weave a tube, and a tube within a tube.
UK: Doubleweave

Hands on Rigid Heddle Weaving
Wonderful projects and plain-weave variations, this user-friendly guide covers choosing, setting up, and weaving on a rigid heddle loom.
UK: Hands on Rigid Heddle

The Woven Bag: 30+ Projects from Small Looms (Writers Digest Guides)
Each bag is created using small looms, such as potholder looms, frame looms and knotted mesh looms.
UK: The Woven Bag
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Handweaving – Sectional Warp : aa120399

A sectional warp beam is great to have for long warps. In sectional warping, the warp is wound onto the back beam in sections, usually 1 – 2 inch widths at a time. The warp runs through a tension box, that helps to maintain even tension while winding.

However, for shorter warps, I find that using the sectional beam/tension box can be a bit cumbersome. Instead, I prefer to use the Front-to-Back method of beaming illustrated in a previous feature. As there is no apron rod to tie the warp threads to on a sectional beam, I use the following work-around.

For each section of the warp beam, I have cut a length of cotton seine twine (any sturdy cotton or linen yarn will do) that is twice the distance from the back beam to the harnesses of the loom. Fold this piece of yarn in half and tie a knot. Then loop it around the metal rod that is attached to the back beam.

As I thread the heddles, I group the ends together in 1 inch sections with an overhand knot (as my sectional beam is in 1 inch sections) For example, if the sett is 20 epi then I tie together 20 ends.

This group of warp ends is then fastened to the length of yarn from the sectional beam with a snitch knot.

I use a lease stick to cover the knots as the warp is wound onto the back beam. You will also need to make sure that the warp winds on evenly into the sections to avoid tension problems. Using this method reduces a considerable amount of loom waste as you will be able to weave almost to the end of your warp.
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Beginner Weaving – Tying Warp: aa110599

When the warp has been evenly wound on to the back beam, you are almost ready to weave. All
that remains is tying on to the front apron rod and checking your tension.

The warp threads are tied to the front apron rod in about 1 inch sections. Bring the bout
of threads over the rod, split the bundle in two, and tie a single overhand knot and tighten
the tension. Repeat this all the way across the warp threads.

front beam knot

Once all the threads have been tied, run your hand lightly across the threads. You should be
able to feel for loose spots – if any of the threads have an uneven tension. Again tighten all
the threads, adjusting any that are loose.

warp tension

Once you feel that the tension is even, then tie a second overhand knot on each thread to
secure them in place.

The next step is to go under your loom and tie the pedals according to the tieup plan in your

draft.

tie warp to loom

Then release the brake and advance the warp forward so that the rod is over the breast beam.
Put the brake back on, and tighten the tension on your loom. You are ready to weave!

Using a contrasting weft color, weave a header – a couple of inches of both tabby and your
pattern. Check for crossed threads and errors in threading. If there are any, you will have to
untie those threads, make the necessary threading corrections, and retie.

weave header

Congratulations! You are done and your warp is ready to go! Happy weaving!

Step 1. Choose your project and yarns.

Step 2. Determine the sett of your cloth, or how many threads per inch the fabric will be.

Step 3. Choose the correct Reed

Step 4. Calculate the Yarn requirements.

Step 5. Wind the Warp using a warping board or warping mill.

Step 6. Remove the warp chains and place them on the loom.

Step 7. Sley the Reed.

Step 8. Thread the heddles, following the draft plan.

Step 9. Wind the warp onto the back beam

Step 10. Tie the warp ends to the front beam.

Congratulations! Now you a ready to Weave!
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