Weaving Project – Hemp Towel

A free weaving pattern for tea towels using hemp yarns.

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This project uses 3 ply natural and 1/2 bleached hemp as warp (1500 ypp). The red coloured blocks are 22/2 cottolin. If you don’t have any hemp available, you can substitute with 22/2 cottolin for the complete warp. The weft is natural single ply hemp. Again, you may substitute with a singles linen.

This design works well as towels or as placemats. The blocks and stripes are very versatile and the design can be easily altered by increasing or decreasing the number of blocks or their size. This is a doubleweave structure where the warp threads create design blocks that are reversed on the back of the cloth.

hemp towel

REVERSE

Weaving Draft
towel weaving draft

 

Sett 24 epi
Width 20 inches
Takeup and shrinkage – 15%
Warp Length 4 yards
Warp Yarns Natural Hemp – 775 yards
Bleached Hemp – 775 yards
Red Cottolin – 368 yards
Weft Yarn Single Ply Hemp or Linen – 1600 yards
Threading
Border Edges 1.5 inches
Alternate Natural & 1/2 Bleached hemp
18 ends Natural Brown Hemp (D-Dark)
18 ends 1/2 Bleached Hemp(L-Light)
(Or substitute with a light & dark shade of cottolin)
The Dark Hemp is threaded on shafts 2 & 4
The lighter bleached hemp is threaded on shafts 1 & 3
This is a double weave structure. When woven the darker shade will show up on one side of the fabric and the lighter shade will be on the reverse.
Red Blocks Each Red Block is 1/2″ wide
12 Ends
separated by 8 ends of the natural/bleached hemp.
In this double weave structure, the 6 Red ends are threaded on shafts 5 & 7 and the natural hemp is threaded on shafts 6 & 8. This results in the red blocks showing up on one side of the fabric and the natural hemp on the reverse.
D-Dark Hemp
R-Red Cottolin
L-Light Hemp
R-Red Cottolin
D
R
L
R
D
R
L
RD
L
D
L
D
L
D
LRepeat this threading 3 times
for the 3 Blocks of Red
Total: 60 ends
Striped Centre Each Striped section is 1″ wide – 24 ends
with 20 ends of alternating Dark and Light Hemp
followed by 4 ends of Red Cottolin, creating a narrow pin stripe of red on the natural background.
To make wider towels, increase the number of pin stripes.
D
L
D
L
D
L
D
L
D
L
D
L
D
L
D
L
D
L
D
L
R
R
R
R
24 ends
Repeat this 11 times
for a width of 12″
288 ends
Repeat the threading for Red Blocks and Border in Reverse for the other side of the towel.
Border Edge 36 ends
Red Blocks 60 ends
Centre Stripes 288 ends
Red Blocks 60 ends
Border Edge 36 ends
Total 480 ends
Heddle Count 1 – 942 – 94
3 – 94
4 – 94
5 – 26
6 – 26
7 – 26
8 – 26

Hand Spinning Hemp with a Distaff

Hand Weaving Books
Weaving on a Little Loom (Everything you need to know to get started with weaving, includes 5 simple projects

The Key to Weaving: A Textbook of Hand Weaving for the Beginning Weaver
The Weaver’s Companion (The Companion Series)
Learning to Weave
The Big Book of Weaving: Handweaving in the Swedish Tradition: Techniques, Patterns, Designs and Materials
The Handweaver’s Pattern Directory
A Weaver’s Book of 8-Shaft Patterns: From the Friends of Handwoven
Krokbragd: How to Design & Weave
Doubleweave: On Four to Eight Shafts
Double Weave: Theory and Practice<
Magic of Doubleweave: The Best of Weaver’s (Best of Weaver’s series)
Weaving In the Arts: Widening the Learning Circle

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Author: Paivi Suomi

I've had an interest in weaving, looms, yarns and textiles since I was a small child. I learned to knit, crochet, sew, do needlepoint at my mother's knee. My grandmother was a Saami from northern Norway. I am very interested in studying more about tradtional Saami and Finnish style weaving and handicrafts. Paivi Suomi