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Craftori

Prym sock loom heel

In an earlier article I described how to knit in the round on a Prym sock loom. I find the instructions that come with the knitting loom a bit difficult to understand, so I have adapted the method slightly. I hope that you will find this a bit easier to follow. Please let me know if anything is not clear or you need additional help.

Prym sock heel


For this sock I used Regia 4 ply sock yarn – which is quite fine so I have used a double set of loops as I cast on. For heavier weight yarns you would only use 1 loop around the pegs. I am using an E wrap stitch for knitting this sock.

Regia Sock Yarn Prints – Clown Rings

The Prym sock loom is conveniently marked with the start and end positions for turning the heel. In the centre of the knitting loom you will see labels 1R, 1L and 16R, 16L (for the Medium size loom)
Once you have knit the length of the leg of the sock and you are ready to start the heel, you will be working on only 1 half of the stitches to complete the heel. So knitting from 1R to 16R and reversing back, knitting from 16R to 1 R. The remaining stitches 1L to 16L stay on the hooks, untouched until you complete the heel.

Decreasing the Heel

Heel Row 1: To knit the first row of the heel, starting at 1R, knit as usual, wrap the yarn around the pegs from 1R to 16R and cast off.
Heel Row 2: At 16R reverse the direction working your way back to 1R, wrap the yarn around the pegs and cast off that row.
Heel Row 3: When you are back to 1R, then work your way back, this time starting at 2R. Wrap the pegs from 2R to 15R and cast off the row.
Heel Row 4: Reverse the direction, knitting your way back to 2R.
Heel Row 5: Starting at 3R, wrap the pegs to 14R and cast off the row.
Heel Row 6: Reverse the direction and wrap the pegs from 14R to 3R and cast off the row.
Heel Row 7: Starting at 4R, wrap the pegs to 13R and cast off the row.
Heel Row 8: Reverse the direction and wrap the pegs from 13R to 4R and cast off the row.
Heel Row 9: Starting at 5R, wrap the pegs to 12R and cast off the row.
Heel Row 10: Reverse the direction and wrap the pegs from 12R to 5R and cast off the row.
Heel Row 11: Starting at 6R, wrap the pegs to 11R and cast off the row.
Heel Row 12: Reverse the direction and wrap the pegs from 11R to 6R and cast off the row.

Prym sock loom diagram


The instructions that come with the Prym loom suggest that for the Left sock, work your way from 1L to 16L in the same fashion, but in my opinion this doesn’t really matter as usually socks for left and right feet are the same, unless you are knitting a pattern into each sock that is only on one side.

Once you have knit the heel back and forth to pegs 6R – 11R the heel will have a V-shape.

Prym Sock Heel

You will now do the reverse of the knitting as you did above, but increasing a stitch on either side, working your way from 6R back to 1R.

Increasing the Heel

Because you have increased rows over part of the sock, there will be a gap or hole left at the end of each row of the heel. In order to avoid this gap from forming, you will need to also pick up or carry a stitch from the next peg as you knit the next row. This is similar to passing over a slip stitch in traditional knitting.
To do this, as you work each row back and forth, pick up a stitch from the previous peg and lift it to the peg you are starting and ending on.
I find it easier to use a small 2.25 mm crochet hook to do this, rather than the pickup stick that comes with the Prym loom.
Crochet Hook Size Chart

Prym sock knitting

Heel Row 13:
Working on peg 6R, Pick up the loop from the back of the previous peg 5R and lift it onto 6R. There will now be 3 loops on peg 6R.
Do the same on the opposite side. Pick up the loop from the back of peg 12R and lift it onto peg 11R. Peg 11R will now have 3 stitches.
Prym Sock loom heel
Wrap the loops from 6R to 11R and cast off the row.
(As you wrap the loop around the first peg (6R) this will now have 4 stitches on it. Cast these off until you have 2 stitches remaining. Continue to knit around to 11R – where you will have 4 stitches on the peg, knit these off back to 2 stitches)
Heel Row 14: Knitting in reverse, wrap the loops from 11R to 6R and cast off the stitches.

Heel Row 15:
Pick up the loop from the back of the previous peg 4R and lift it to 5R.
On the other side of the sock, Pick up the loop from back of 13R and lift it to 12R.
Wrap the loops starting with peg 5R to 12R and cast off the stitches.
Heel Row 16: Knitting in reverse, wrap the pegs from 12R to 5R and cast off the stitches.

Heel Row 17:
Pick up the loop from the back of the previous peg 3R and lift it to 4R.
On the other side of the sock, Pick up the loop from back of 14R and lift it to 13R.
Wrap the loops starting with peg 4R to 13R and cast off the stitches.
Heel Row 18: Knitting in reverse, wrap the pegs from 13R to 4R and cast off the stitches.

Heel Row 19:
Pick up the loop from the back of the previous peg 2R and lift it to 3R.
On the other side of the sock, Pick up the loop from back of 15R and lift it to 14R.
Wrap the loops starting with peg 3R to 14R and cast off the stitches.
Heel Row 20: Knitting in reverse, wrap the pegs from 14R to 3R and cast off the stitches.

Heel Row 21:
Pick up the loop from the back of the previous peg 1R and lift it to 2R.
On the other side of the sock, Pick up the loop from back of 16R and lift it to 15R.
Wrap the loops starting with peg 2R to 15R and cast off the stitches.
Heel Row 22: Knitting in reverse, wrap the pegs from 15R to 2R and cast off the stitches.

Heel Row 23:
Pick up the loop from the back of the previous peg 1L and lift it to 1R.
On the other side of the sock, Pick up the loop from back of 16L and lift it to 16R.
Wrap the loops starting with peg 1R to 16R and cast off the stitches.
Heel Row 24: Knitting in reverse, wrap the pegs from 16R to 1R and cast off the stitches.

Prym sock heel diagram

You have now completed knitting the heel and you can resume knitting the foot of the sock in the round, as you did for the leg of the sock.

Prym Sock Loom: How to Knit the Heel – You Tube Video

COMING NEXT:
How to knit the toe of the sock.

Prym Sock Knitting Loom

The Prym knitting loom is currently available for sale in the UK. You can purchase it on
Amazon UK

Prym Knitting Sock Loom
Prym sock loom

Canada
Karp Styles
UK
Here a few other vendors in the UK who sell the Prym knitting looms. Perhaps they are also willing to ship worldwide.
Knit and Sew
Purple Linda Crafts

Recommended Books

Loom Knitting Socks: A Beginner’s Guide to Knitting Socks on a Loom with Over 50 Fun Projects (No-Needle Knits)

Big Book of Loom Knitting: Learn to Loom Knit

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One of the basic weaving drafts is the twill draft. In a twill weave, one or two consecutive warp threads are raised and two are lowered. On the following pick the next 2 warp threads are raised and two are lowered, creating a diagonal slant to the fabric.

2/2 Twill
twill draft

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Doc in Scrubs Amigurumi

Amigurumi figures are quite easy and fun to make, even for a beginner crocheter. You only need to know 3 crochet stitches, CH – chain stitch, SL St – Slip Stitch and SC – single crochet.
This crochet pattern uses US crochet notation.
For UK: SC (single crochet) = DC (double crochet)
How to increase stitches:
Crochet 2 stitches in the same stitch
How to decrease stitches:
Skip a stitch and crochet in the next stitch

This is a basic pattern for an Amigurumi figure and can be easily adapted by making legs, arms, or body longer or shorter. You can make the body fatter by adding another row of increases, or thinner by reducing the number of decreases in a row.
Amigurumi doctor


This is a free Amigurumi doll crochet design for a doctor dressed in scrubs.
I used a Double Knitting weight cotton yarn for this crochet project.
Wendy Supreme 100% Luxury Cotton Yarn
DK Weight
200 meters/100 gram
Substitute by using any yarn of a similar weight. If you use a thicker or thinner yarn the finished doll will be a different size.
Size 3 mm crochet hook

Legs


Make 2
Ch 2
1: 6 SC in 2nd st
2: SC, 2SC in next st, repeat to end (9)
3: SC in each st (9)
Change to blue yarn
4: SC in each st (9)
5: SC in back loop of st , repeat around (9)
6: (Decrease 1 stitch) Sc, Skip 1 st, SC in next st, SC to end (8)
7: SC in each st (8)
Rows 8-17: SC in each st (8)
(If you would like longer legs add more rows)
Sl st and cut off end

Repeat for Leg 2
Ending with sl st
Do not cut yarn

To Join onto leg 1:
Put hook through st on leg 1 and SC
(This joins Leg 2 to Leg 1)
(Continuing on Leg 1) SL st in next st, 4 times
You will now be at the side of Leg 1
This is the start of the bottom of the body
Stuff the Legs

Amigurumi crochet legs

Body

1: SC in each st (16)
2: SC in next st, 2 times, 2 SC in next st, repeat around (24)
(If you would like a thicker body, add another row of increases here)
Rows 3 – 6: SC in each st (24)
7: SC in back loop of st, around (24)
If you would like a thicker body add another one or two rows of increased stitches (increase 6 stitches evenly across the row)

Rows 8-12: SC in each st
(If you would like a longer body, add rows here)
13: SC, SC, sk 1 st, SC (18)
14: SC,SC,SC, sk 1 st, SC (12)
Stuff the Body

Head:
Change yarn to skin tone body colour
15: SC around (12)
16: SC, 2 SC in next st, around (18)
17: SC,SC, 2 SC in next st, around (24)
18: SC, SC, SC, 2 SC in next st, around (36)
Rows 19 – 20: SC around (36)
21: (SC, SC, SC, skip 1 stitch) repeat around (24)
22: (SC, SC, skip 1 stitch) repeat around (18)
23: (SC, skip 1 stitch) repeat around (12)

Stuff the Head
If you want to use Safety Eyes put these in place before you complete the head.
If this doll is intended for children under 3, Safety Eyes are not safe. It is better to embroider the eyes on after the head has been completed.
Small Black Craft Eyes – 15 Pair in 3 Sizes (6mm, 9mm, 12mm)

24: (SC, skip 1 stitch) repeat around (6)
25: (SC, skip 1 stitch) repeat around
Cut yarn end and sew together
Amigurumi crochet figure

Arms

Make 2
Starting with the ‘magic circle’, using skin tone color yarn, CH2
1: SC 6 stitches in 2nd chain from hook
2: SC, 2 SC in next stitch, around (9)
3: (SC, sc,skip 1 stitch,) twice, SC (7)
Rows 4 – 10: SC around (7)
(Make arms longer (or shorter) by adding more rows here)
6: Change to Blue Yarn, SC around (7)
7: SC in back loop of stitch, around (7)
Rows 8-10: SC around
Cut yarn.
Stuff the arm
Sew onto the side of the body.

Amigurumi Doctor Doll

Tunic Pattern

To make clothing I make the garment the same number of stitches around as the largest part of the body, but use a slightly larger crochet hook size.
For this doll the maximum width of the body was 24 stitches, so I made a chain of 24 stitches using a No 4 mm crochet hook size. Check this by wrapping the chain around the body to make sure it fits.
Join the chain together.
Row 1: SC around (24)
Rows 2-10: SC around (24)
Add or decrease additional rows as you wish, until the garment reaches just under the armpit of the doll.
Now you will be crocheting the rest of the shirt in two sections, front and back, rather than in the round.

FRONT:
11: SC across 12 stitches
12: turn, CH 1, SC across 11 stitches
repeat row 12, 4 times or until you reach the neckline.
Break the yarn.

BACK:
11: Join the yarn at the armpit of the other side and
SC across 12 stitches
12: turn, CH 1, SC across 11 stitches
repeat row 12, 4 times or until you reach the neckline.
Break the yarn.

Put the shirt onto the doll and attach the shoulders together with a few slip stitches.

If you would like to add sleeves to the shirt you can pick up the stitches around the armhole of the shirt and crochet a sleeve.

Dr. Who Doll

Dr. Who Crochet Doll Kit

Crochet Patterns

Crochet Bowls

Recommended Amigurumi Pattern Books

The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Amigurumi

Amigurumi: Animal Friends

Amigurumi World: Seriously Cute Crochet

Amigurumi Knits: Patterns for 20 Cute Mini Knits

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Prym Sock Knitting


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