I have been doing a study on Sami braid weaving and I noticed that the ends of the heddle woven braids are often finished with a simple braid technique of finger weaving or open braiding the ends. These types of braids are also used for belts, ties and bracelets and are traditional in Finland and other Nordic countries.
I thought that using bobbin lace bobbins for holding the warp threads would be a suitable way to weave this type of braid.
To weave a 2 yard length of braid I started with 3 yard length of warp yarn in 8 strands.
I attached the ends to the top of an art board with a jumbo paper clip to hold the braid in place while I weave.
I wound each yarn length around the neck of a bobbin.
This is a very simple twill type of weave that makes a flat braid, much like a shoe lace. I will be using this braid for lacing a pair of hand felted wool slippers.
Working from the Left to the right
Take the first warp yarn (your working yarn) on the left and weave it Over the next 2 warp threads
Then weave the working yarn Under the next 2 warp yarns
Then weave the working yarn Over the next warp yarn
Then weave the working yarn under the last 2 warp yarns.
Tighten the tension
Repeat the above sequence again starting from the left, weaving to the right.
Winter is coming soon and my little granddaughter needs some warm booties.
Here is a selection of free crochet patterns that I have found. Some of them will be great using handspun yarns. Please let me know if you find other ones.
November 11 – Remembrance Day
It’s poppy time!
Why not knit or crochet a hand made poppy or two to remember this day and those who fought so that we can be safe. Please remember, if you sell any of these handmade poppies, please donate the funds to your local Legion. This is their main source of funding.
Here are some links to free Knit and Crochet Poppy patterns:
Our local Stitch’n'Bitch group that meets weekly at Chichester’s Park Tavern Pub crocheted some poppies this week. Proceeds from sales went to the British Legion – and our efforts made it into our local newspaper. The Observer
A few weeks ago I had a lovely holiday in Kassiopi, Corfu. I had visited there a few years ago and had discovered a very talented weaver who has a small shop on the main street of Kassiopi. I was very pleased to see that she is still in business and is doing well. She is expanding her style and line of goods as her daughter-in-law is now learning to weave and is adding some of her own handwoven products to the shop.
Agathis studied weaving, sewing, crochet, needlework and textiles at a specialist school in Crete. She first started her shop in the early 70′s by crocheting and selling her products out on the street to the tourists who would pass by her home. Fairly quickly she was able to expand into a shop and she has successfully run her business and worked there since.
Agathis has a loom in the middle of the shop that always has a new project on it. During the summer months, you can see Agathis busy at work throughout the day and into the late evening.
Agathis showed me a beautiful bamboo reed that her mother used to weave with. The bamboo dents occasionally broke but they could be replaced by cutting and filing another piece of bamboo.
Not only weaving – Agathis is proficient at crochet, needlework, embroidery, weaving and just about any other textile craft. Her shelves are brimming with handmade products that she has produced. I could spend hours at her shop, marvelling at what she has made. Every piece has a story behind it, and she is very happy to share her wealth of knowledge.
Crewel Work – Chain Stitch Embroidery
Handwoven Linen dyed with Natural Dyes
(Red and Yellow Onion Skins)
Hand woven Throws
She also has a larger loom that she puts up during the winter months so she can weave wider projects such as throws and blankets.
Mario’s Olive Wood Workshop
Agathis also has a very talented son, Mario who specializes in woodworking using olive wood. He also has a shop in Kassiopi and ships his products worldwide.
In an earlier article I described how to knit in the round on a Prym sock loom. I find the instructions that come with the knitting loom a bit difficult to understand, so I have adapted the method slightly. I hope that you will find this a bit easier to follow. Please let me know if anything is not clear or you need additional help.
For this sock I used Regia 4 ply sock yarn – which is quite fine so I have used a double set of loops as I cast on. For heavier weight yarns you would only use 1 loop around the pegs. I am using an E wrap stitch for knitting this sock.
The Prym sock loom is conveniently marked with the start and end positions for turning the heel. In the centre of the knitting loom you will see labels 1R, 1L and 16R, 16L (for the Medium size loom)
Once you have knit the length of the leg of the sock and you are ready to start the heel, you will be working on only 1 half of the stitches to complete the heel. So knitting from 1R to 16R and reversing back, knitting from 16R to 1 R. The remaining stitches 1L to 16L stay on the hooks, untouched until you complete the heel.
Decreasing the Heel
Heel Row 1: To knit the first row of the heel, starting at 1R, knit as usual, wrap the yarn around the pegs from 1R to 16R and cast off. Heel Row 2: At 16R reverse the direction working your way back to 1R, wrap the yarn around the pegs and cast off that row. Heel Row 3: When you are back to 1R, then work your way back, this time starting at 2R. Wrap the pegs from 2R to 15R and cast off the row. Heel Row 4: Reverse the direction, knitting your way back to 2R. Heel Row 5: Starting at 3R, wrap the pegs to 14R and cast off the row. Heel Row 6: Reverse the direction and wrap the pegs from 14R to 3R and cast off the row. Heel Row 7: Starting at 4R, wrap the pegs to 13R and cast off the row. Heel Row 8: Reverse the direction and wrap the pegs from 13R to 4R and cast off the row. Heel Row 9: Starting at 5R, wrap the pegs to 12R and cast off the row. Heel Row 10: Reverse the direction and wrap the pegs from 12R to 5R and cast off the row. Heel Row 11: Starting at 6R, wrap the pegs to 11R and cast off the row. Heel Row 12: Reverse the direction and wrap the pegs from 11R to 6R and cast off the row.
The instructions that come with the Prym loom suggest that for the Left sock, work your way from 1L to 16L in the same fashion, but in my opinion this doesn’t really matter as usually socks for left and right feet are the same, unless you are knitting a pattern into each sock that is only on one side.
Once you have knit the heel back and forth to pegs 6R – 11R the heel will have a V-shape.
You will now do the reverse of the knitting as you did above, but increasing a stitch on either side, working your way from 6R back to 1R.
Increasing the Heel
Because you have increased rows over part of the sock, there will be a gap or hole left at the end of each row of the heel. In order to avoid this gap from forming, you will need to also pick up or carry a stitch from the next peg as you knit the next row. This is similar to passing over a slip stitch in traditional knitting.
To do this, as you work each row back and forth, pick up a stitch from the previous peg and lift it to the peg you are starting and ending on.
I find it easier to use a small 2.25 mm crochet hook to do this, rather than the pickup stick that comes with the Prym loom. Crochet Hook Size Chart
Heel Row 13:
Working on peg 6R, Pick up the loop from the back of the previous peg 5R and lift it onto 6R. There will now be 3 loops on peg 6R.
Do the same on the opposite side. Pick up the loop from the back of peg 12R and lift it onto peg 11R. Peg 11R will now have 3 stitches.
Wrap the loops from 6R to 11R and cast off the row.
(As you wrap the loop around the first peg (6R) this will now have 4 stitches on it. Cast these off until you have 2 stitches remaining. Continue to knit around to 11R – where you will have 4 stitches on the peg, knit these off back to 2 stitches) Heel Row 14: Knitting in reverse, wrap the loops from 11R to 6R and cast off the stitches.
Heel Row 15:
Pick up the loop from the back of the previous peg 4R and lift it to 5R.
On the other side of the sock, Pick up the loop from back of 13R and lift it to 12R.
Wrap the loops starting with peg 5R to 12R and cast off the stitches. Heel Row 16: Knitting in reverse, wrap the pegs from 12R to 5R and cast off the stitches.
Heel Row 17:
Pick up the loop from the back of the previous peg 3R and lift it to 4R.
On the other side of the sock, Pick up the loop from back of 14R and lift it to 13R.
Wrap the loops starting with peg 4R to 13R and cast off the stitches. Heel Row 18: Knitting in reverse, wrap the pegs from 13R to 4R and cast off the stitches.
Heel Row 19:
Pick up the loop from the back of the previous peg 2R and lift it to 3R.
On the other side of the sock, Pick up the loop from back of 15R and lift it to 14R.
Wrap the loops starting with peg 3R to 14R and cast off the stitches. Heel Row 20: Knitting in reverse, wrap the pegs from 14R to 3R and cast off the stitches.
Heel Row 21:
Pick up the loop from the back of the previous peg 1R and lift it to 2R.
On the other side of the sock, Pick up the loop from back of 16R and lift it to 15R.
Wrap the loops starting with peg 2R to 15R and cast off the stitches. Heel Row 22: Knitting in reverse, wrap the pegs from 15R to 2R and cast off the stitches.
Heel Row 23:
Pick up the loop from the back of the previous peg 1L and lift it to 1R.
On the other side of the sock, Pick up the loop from back of 16L and lift it to 16R.
Wrap the loops starting with peg 1R to 16R and cast off the stitches. Heel Row 24: Knitting in reverse, wrap the pegs from 16R to 1R and cast off the stitches.
You have now completed knitting the heel and you can resume knitting the foot of the sock in the round, as you did for the leg of the sock.
Prym Sock Loom: How to Knit the Heel – You Tube Video
How to knit the toe of the sock.
Prym Sock Knitting Loom
The Prym knitting loom is currently available for sale in the UK. You can purchase it on Amazon UK
One of the basic weaving drafts is the twill draft. In a twill weave, one or two consecutive warp threads are raised and two are lowered. On the following pick the next 2 warp threads are raised and two are lowered, creating a diagonal slant to the fabric.
Amigurumi figures are quite easy and fun to make, even for a beginner crocheter. You only need to know 3 crochet stitches, CH – chain stitch, SL St – Slip Stitch and SC – single crochet.
This crochet pattern uses US crochet notation.
For UK: SC (single crochet) = DC (double crochet)
How to increase stitches:
Crochet 2 stitches in the same stitch
How to decrease stitches:
Skip a stitch and crochet in the next stitch
This is a basic pattern for an Amigurumi figure and can be easily adapted by making legs, arms, or body longer or shorter. You can make the body fatter by adding another row of increases, or thinner by reducing the number of decreases in a row.
This is a free Amigurumi doll crochet design for a doctor dressed in scrubs.
I used a Double Knitting weight cotton yarn for this crochet project.
Wendy Supreme 100% Luxury Cotton Yarn
200 meters/100 gram
Substitute by using any yarn of a similar weight. If you use a thicker or thinner yarn the finished doll will be a different size.
Size 3 mm crochet hook
1: 6 SC in 2nd st
2: SC, 2SC in next st, repeat to end (9)
3: SC in each st (9)
Change to blue yarn
4: SC in each st (9)
5: SC in back loop of st , repeat around (9)
6: (Decrease 1 stitch) Sc, Skip 1 st, SC in next st, SC to end (8)
7: SC in each st (8)
Rows 8-17: SC in each st (8)
(If you would like longer legs add more rows)
Sl st and cut off end
Repeat for Leg 2
Ending with sl st
Do not cut yarn
To Join onto leg 1:
Put hook through st on leg 1 and SC
(This joins Leg 2 to Leg 1)
(Continuing on Leg 1) SL st in next st, 4 times
You will now be at the side of Leg 1
This is the start of the bottom of the body
Stuff the Legs
1: SC in each st (16)
2: SC in next st, 2 times, 2 SC in next st, repeat around (24)
(If you would like a thicker body, add another row of increases here)
Rows 3 – 6: SC in each st (24)
7: SC in back loop of st, around (24)
If you would like a thicker body add another one or two rows of increased stitches (increase 6 stitches evenly across the row)
Rows 8-12: SC in each st
(If you would like a longer body, add rows here)
13: SC, SC, sk 1 st, SC (18)
14: SC,SC,SC, sk 1 st, SC (12)
Stuff the Body
Change yarn to skin tone body colour
15: SC around (12)
16: SC, 2 SC in next st, around (18)
17: SC,SC, 2 SC in next st, around (24)
18: SC, SC, SC, 2 SC in next st, around (36)
Rows 19 – 20: SC around (36)
21: (SC, SC, SC, skip 1 stitch) repeat around (24)
22: (SC, SC, skip 1 stitch) repeat around (18)
23: (SC, skip 1 stitch) repeat around (12)
Stuff the Head
If you want to use Safety Eyes put these in place before you complete the head.
If this doll is intended for children under 3, Safety Eyes are not safe. It is better to embroider the eyes on after the head has been completed. Small Black Craft Eyes – 15 Pair in 3 Sizes (6mm, 9mm, 12mm)
24: (SC, skip 1 stitch) repeat around (6)
25: (SC, skip 1 stitch) repeat around
Cut yarn end and sew together
Starting with the ‘magic circle’, using skin tone color yarn, CH2
1: SC 6 stitches in 2nd chain from hook
2: SC, 2 SC in next stitch, around (9)
3: (SC, sc,skip 1 stitch,) twice, SC (7)
Rows 4 – 10: SC around (7)
(Make arms longer (or shorter) by adding more rows here)
6: Change to Blue Yarn, SC around (7)
7: SC in back loop of stitch, around (7)
Rows 8-10: SC around
Stuff the arm
Sew onto the side of the body.
To make clothing I make the garment the same number of stitches around as the largest part of the body, but use a slightly larger crochet hook size.
For this doll the maximum width of the body was 24 stitches, so I made a chain of 24 stitches using a No 4 mm crochet hook size. Check this by wrapping the chain around the body to make sure it fits.
Join the chain together.
Row 1: SC around (24)
Rows 2-10: SC around (24)
Add or decrease additional rows as you wish, until the garment reaches just under the armpit of the doll.
Now you will be crocheting the rest of the shirt in two sections, front and back, rather than in the round.
11: SC across 12 stitches
12: turn, CH 1, SC across 11 stitches
repeat row 12, 4 times or until you reach the neckline.
Break the yarn.
11: Join the yarn at the armpit of the other side and
SC across 12 stitches
12: turn, CH 1, SC across 11 stitches
repeat row 12, 4 times or until you reach the neckline.
Break the yarn.
Put the shirt onto the doll and attach the shoulders together with a few slip stitches.
If you would like to add sleeves to the shirt you can pick up the stitches around the armhole of the shirt and crochet a sleeve.
I purchased a Prym sock loom today. I have read mixed reviews of them but thought I would give it a try. This knitting loom is similar to the round knitting looms but it is oval in shape. It has a rubberized base and the metal pegs look like bent paper clips. With the unique paper clip shape to the pegs, there is plenty of space to pick up or hook the stitch as you are knitting the loops. There are no rough edges and I find that it is quite easy to hold in your hand, and compact and portable to toss into my purse or knitting bag to take with me. The Prym knitting loom comes with a pickup stick that looks similar to a knitting needle. I use this for picking up the stitches but have also found it handy to also have a small crochet hook for picking up different weights of yarn.
The Prym Sock Loom comes in 3 sizes ranging from small to wide feet:
Sock Size Knitting Chart
You can make the socks any length you like, regardless of which size of knitting loom you purchased.
This chart gives the length for foot of the sock for different shoe sizes.
Knitting with this type of sock loom is very similar to spool or cork knitting. How to Use a Corker
The instructions that came with the knitting loom are a bit difficult to follow as they are written in several languages.
I have rewritten the instructions to make this easier to understand.
To knit on this loom, each loop round is followed by a cast off round. Together this makes a knitted row.
To start, For thicker yarns, loop the yarn around each peg in 2 rounds, followed by a cast off round.
For finer yarns, loop the yarn around each peg in 3 rounds, followed by a cast off round.
I am using Regia 4 ply sock yarn for this pair of socks. Because I am using a fine yarn, I am using the Triple loop method, looping 3 rounds onto the pegs before casting off.
1. Place the yarn from back to front onto starting position 0, leaving a length of 15 cm hanging from the back.
2. Loop the yarn counter-clockwise around the peg 1L, then around peg 1R, 2R, 3R and so on, working your way clock-wise around the loom.
3. The first looping round is finished when peg 1L has been looped twice.
4. Loop the second round in the same way on top of the first round.
The round is finished when peg 1L has been looped 3 times.
Cast off round
Use the cast-off needle to cast off.
To do this, pick up the bottom loop on the peg and lift it up and over the peg.
After each cast off, push the stitches down the peg to adjust the tension.
Continue to cast off working your way around the loom.
To cast off Double loops, Lift the bottom stitch over the top stitch and over the peg. The peg now has one stitch left.
To cast off Triple loops, Lift the bottom stitch over the 2 upper stitches and over the peg. The peg now has 2 stitches left.
Continue working around the sock knitter, alternating between Looping and Casting off rows.
The knitting develops behind the pegs. After about 5-10 rows (depending on the thickness of your yarn) you will begin to see the knitted rows below the knitting loom. I found it much easier to control the tension once the sock had some length as I could gently tug on the bottom of the sock to keep the yarn from slipping off the pegs.
Continue knitting around until you reach the desired length for the cuff of your sock.
I am not sure if the Prym knitting loom is for sale yet in the US. If it is, could you please let me know so that I can add links for where to purchase one. Canada Karp Styles UK
Here a few other vendors in the UK who sell the Prym knitting looms. Perhaps they are also willing to ship worldwide. Knit and Sew Purple Linda Crafts
During winter months, I tend to dye yarns mostly with acid based dyes because they are quick reacting and simple to work with. Now that it is spring and the sun is shining, I can again do some dye work outside so work more with natural plant dyes. Natural dye baths and mordants require much more time to prepare so I leave dye pots outside to steep and do their thing.
Today I am experimenting with madder root, trying out different temperatures and pH levels to see what happens. Alizarin and Purpurin are the main components of madder. Alizerine (reds)attaches itself to fiber at temperatures around 50 deg C. At higher temperatures > 80 deg C, purpurin (yellows) becomes the predominant dye color. For each dye bath I am dyeing approx 100 grams of fiber, using white Romney fleece and natural grey roving.
I have prepared an alum mordant, using 10 grams of alum and 5 grams of tartaric acid.
For subsequent mordants, I reuse the same mordant bath but add an additional 5 grams of alum. I check the pH level and if this increases above pH 4 I add a bit more tartaric acid.
Madder, like many other natural dye substances, is sensitive to heat and pH levels. At different temperatures or pH, you will get different colors.
In the first experiment, I used 15 grams of madder root powder, tied up in a nylon stocking.
I put the madder root into a dyebath and brought the temperature to around 40-50 deg C and let it cook for about an hour.
Then I added the scoured and mordanted wool. I let the dyebath simmer for a few hours, keeping the temperature below 50 deg C. I turned off the heat and let the dyebath cool and sit overnight.
I removed the dyed fleece from the dyebath the following day.
My cat loves wool and crawling into small places to nap. I have many bags of wool so I thought I should make him his own special place to hide from dog and curl up.
I am using the wet felting method to make this cat cave. This project will take about 6 hours to do, and because you will be felting quite a bit of wet wool, it can get quite heavy to work with so take frequent breaks. You may want to complete this project over 2 days. It is fine to leave the wet felt overnight and complete the felting process the next day.
Start by making a thin layer of wool roving over the felting mat approx 24″ square.
Add 3 or 4 more layers of wool roving crossing them in opposite directions.
Place a fine mesh cloth over the wool and spray with warm soapy water.
Rub gently and add more soapy water until the wool begins to felt.
Gently remove the mesh cloth.
This will be the bottom of the cat bed.
Cut a piece of thick plastic such as from a heavy plastic bag into an oval shape approx. 20″ x 24″ to use as a form for the cat pod.
Place this over the previously felted wool.
Add another 3-4 layers of wool roving over the form so that it extends over the plastic form about 2 inches around.
Lay the mesh cloth over the wool roving.
Add some warm soapy water and again rub the wool roving until this begins to felt.
Remove the mesh cloth.
Fold and Tuck the ends of the wool roving under the form.
Fold the edges of the bottom layer over the top.
Yes, the plastic form will be left inside the two layers.
Place the felt piece inside the bamboo felt mat and continue rolling.
Open the felting mat occasionally, spray with more soapy water and turn the felt piece around so that the felting occurs evenly.
Keep rolling and felting.
Eventually the wool will begin to shrink and the edges of the cat bed will start to curl up.
You can now cut a small hole into the felted cat bed and carefully remove the plastic form.
Roll the felt piece back into the bamboo felting mat and continue to roll and felt until the wool becomes quite hard and firm.
Place the felted wool into a sink filled with hot water and continue to felt and agitate the wool to continue the felting process.
Run cold tap water over the felted piece and continue to shape the wool into a ball shape.
The cold water will help to harden the wool so that it holds its shape.
Stuff the inside of the felted cat pod with plastic bags so that the cat bed holds its shape while it dries.
Yes, this felted cat bed can be washed. Wash it by hand in warm soapy water and rinse. You can gently turn it inside out to wash and clean the inside as well.
Roll the cat bed into a towel and squeeze or step on it to remove the excess water.
Stuff the bed with plastic bags and push it back into shape. Place it in a warm place to dry.
Make some felted balls for your cat to play with.
A clock that knits. One of our Facebook members shared this link. The website is in German so you may need to turn on the translator in your browser.
All Fiber Arts Group on Facebook
In addition to our ongoing Delphi Forum, I have also started up a Facebook Group for weavers and fiber artists who like to use Facebook. Come join our friendly group if you like.
Crochet bowls are a fun project for a beginner and use up odd bits of yarn.
I crocheted this bowl using one of the crochet bowl patterns below.
I used a hemp yarn and size 3.5 crochet hook.
I have recently discovered double ended crochet hooks by Knit Pro Symfonie which I love. They are made from birch wood and come in lovely colors. Since I mostly tend to work with thicker yarns and handspun wools, the set of 5 hooks ranging in 10 sizes from 3.0 mm – 8 mm gives me the variety of sizes that I need.
LouLou Morris, one of the regulars to our local Stitch and Bitch group that meets on Monday evenings at The Park Tavern in Chichester, is also a tapestry weaver. Recently she was commissioned to weave a tapestry for the Chichester Cathedral to celebrate the rebuilding of the cathedral spire.
Loulou Morris “Your people will rebuild the ancient ruins and restore the foundations of past generations. You will be called the Rebuilder of Broken Walls and the Restorer of Streets Where People live” Isaiah 58:12
Although the theme of my residency is linked to the collapse and subsequent rebuilding of the Cathedral spire, I have chosen to use the prophetic words to explore the idea of “rebuilding” in other ways – as I believe they were intended. There is much to celebrate in the reconstruction of a building; there is even more to celebrate in the regeneration of a people, the renewal of relationships or the healing of an individual. All these strands have been in my mind as I have chosen imagery and words to be included in the tapestry that I shall be weaving during the residency. The act of weaving – creating both imagery and surface at the same time – is wonderful to partake in, as spectator or maker. First there is emptiness, then warp as the foundation and then weft builds the structure and tells the story. Tapestry weaving is a slow and careful art in a fast world. There are no instant results.
This is a project to felt and sew a hand felted cushion cover.
Wool roving for making felt
approx 1 yard of cotton fabric
16 inch zipper
19 inch pillow form
Hand made Felt
To make the felt top for this pillow, I made a large piece of felt approx 24 inches square. During the felting process the felt will shrink about 10%-15%.
I don’t like to waste wool, so I use the leftover thrums from carding for making felt. This comes from the fleece that is left on the drum carder and isn’t a good enough quality for hand spinning.
I placed a thin layer of the leftover wool onto the felting mat. I then added a second layer of gray wool roving over the wool thrums, laying the fiber in the opposite direction. I added a third thin layer of gray roving over the previous layer, again in the opposite direction.
I wet the wool with warm water and soap and rolled it up in a felting mat.
For more detailed instructions of how to make a piece of felt please see below.
After the wool was felted, the completed felt piece measured approx 19-20 inches square.
I cut 2 pieces of cotton fabric approx 2 inches larger than the felted piece.
I stitched the felt piece to one of the cotton fabric pieces close to the edge of the felt. I want to leave the outer edges of the handmade felt as a border on the pillow.
I sewed a second row of stitching about 1 inch inside of the outer edge, to create a border to the pillow.
I folded and pinned the outer edges of the felt to the inside, to prevent them from being sewn as I sewed the backing onto the pillow.
Right sides together I pinned the fabric for the pillow back to the pillow front.
I sewed one of the seams together and added a zipper.
After adding the zipper, I sewed the remaining 3 sides of the pillow together.
Turn the cushion cover right side out, remove all the pins and insert the pillow.
Time to put your feet up and enjoy!
Many people associate crafts like knitting and crocheting with old ladies, however this is a stereotype which could not be more wrong. An increasing number of young people are now getting into this creative past time and are knitting scarves, gloves and even toys. Plus in this economic climate, learning a skill like knitting is a great way to save money by making home made gifts.
With the current popularity of these crafts and the variety of yarns and fun projects available, there’s never been a better time than now to take up this creative activity. If you normally spend your free time watching reruns of TV shows or playing some FoxyBingo.com online, but now you would like to try being more creative and productive, then it sounds like knitting is the perfect hobby for you.
Knitting relieves stress
After a long or stressful day at the office, there’s no better way to relax than sitting on the sofa, enjoying a cup of tea and getting on with some knitting. You’ll find that all the worries of the day melt away due to the relaxing, rhythmic and simple nature of knitting. The repetitive movements of knitting help to lull us into a relaxed rhythm because all we need to do is focus on just one task. In addition, knitting helps you to gather your thoughts and find a calm and positive state of mind where you’re not mulling over the past or fretting about the future.
There’s more to knitting which meets the eye. According to research conducted by Professor Richard Davidson of Wisconsin University, it is thought that practising rhythmic and repetitive movements such as knitting for eight weeks can have a positive effect on brain function and even strengthen the immune system. This is because therapeutic activities such as knitting evoke relaxation responses which can help reduce blood pressure, heart rate and help to prevent stress related illnesses.
Knitting improves your mood
In research by Dr. Barry Jacobs of Princetown University it has been discovered that repetitive movements in animals enhance the release of serotonin. In depression, serotonin levels are low but rhythmical movements such as knitting release a chemical called serotonin which can help you feel more calm and happy.
So when you are feeling stressed at work, it’s time for a knitting break!
To make the flower first knit the set of outer petals in garter stitch following the instructions given.
The inner petals of the flower are knitted in a similar fashion, but slightly smaller in size.
The center of the flower is knit in a contrasting color by simply casting on and casting off. For this I used another hand spun wool yarn dyed in yellow.
After knitting the flower sections, sew them together following the pattern instructions.
Then I felted the completed flower, by putting it into a sink full of hot tap water with a bit of dish detergent. I rubbed and massaged the flower quite vigorously until it felted. I further felted the flower by dipping it into cold and hot water repeatedly.
What is a Russian join? A Russian join is a very effective way to join 2 yarn ends without using a knot. It works well on any type of plied yarn, especially when the yarn doesn’t felt, such as for cotton, linen or superwash wool yarns. It can be used for knitting and crochet. I also like to use this method for nalbinding.
How to Russian Join Yarn
Thread a needle with one of the yarns you wish to join.
Work the needle back through the yarn for about an inch, forming a loop.
Pull the thread through, leaving a loop in the yarn end.
Thread the second yarn end through the loop.
Thread the needle with the second yarn.
Work the needle back through the second yarn end for about an inch.
Pull the needle through the yarn, leaving a second loop.
Pull gently on both yarn ends to close the loops.
You can now trim the yarn ends leaving you with a neatly joined yarn.
Use your own life experience to create imagery for a 'Fabric Journal' quilt. Illustrate significant moments in your life with textural fabrics, hand dyed wools, embellishments and ethnic beads. Sue will...
Pre-registration required. This panel critique will be led by Jim Romberg, Dennis Ott and John Soderberg. Artists often find themselves working in solitude. Attending a group critique allows for a fresh...
Pageantry is a world-wide, multi-disciplinary community-based art form that includes script-writing, visual arts, music, choreography, and dancing. It usually involves a parade that gathers the community...
The exploration of abstraction, both objective and non-objective, in the art quilt medium is the theme of this workshop. Sue will present several methods for developing abstract imagery and encourage students...